Outfit used
2007 Swift Charisma 620 towed with 2007 Mitsubishi Shogun Elegance
Dorset's Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage Site, is criss-crossed with footpaths and is a maze of forest tracks. Staying at Golden Cap Caravan Park in Bridport, I was in the heart of walking country, but I discovered there was more to the walks here than pretty views. Through my waIks, I went back in time in Dorchester, walked with dinosaurs on Chesil beach and watched the wildlife at Axmouth. The Dorset coast is also renowned for its rock formations, including one of the best known in the country: Durdle Door the landmark arch formed by coastal erosion.
Walk One
Lulworth Cove
Stunning views over the Jurassic Coast
Time 3 hours
Distance 7 miles
Type of walk Scenic
Grading Steep climbs
If you drive down the hill toward Lulworth and see the gravel car park full, don't panic. There is a large overflow field, which is opened when the first is full. It is best to arrive early because it gets very busy in peak season.
The walk will take three to four hours, depending on how fit you are. There are three very steep sections, so it's best to pay for four hours' parking, a cost of £4, or even buy a day ticket at £5, so you can take your time and enjoy the views.
There are no watering holes en route, so it is best to take water and something to eat. You will need the energy to help you up those steep hills.
Step 1 Lulworth Cove to Durdle Door
Time 30-45 minutes
Distance 1mile
I pull on my walking boots at my car and start hiking toward the top of the car park. Passing through the gate there, I start ascending the white steps that stretch uphill. I can feel the muscles in my calves straining as I reach
the top.
But my efforts are rewarded with a glorious view of cliffs that are as white as china against the blue sky and extend as far as the eye can see. Skylarks are trilling above my head and
I feel exultant, even though I have more than seven miles ahead of me.
After admiring the view, I walk on to Durdle Door. This natural limestone arch has been formed by sea erosion and is a fascinating site. It is also a tourist honey pot, swarming with visitors, including several school parties when
I arrive. One teacher, speaking French, tells
the children in his charge that it is imperative to take a picture. Others talk about coastal erosion and how some rocks erode quicker than others to form the distinctive shape of this bay. I snap away with my camera and learn about the geology of the area from the teachers I can overhear.
Step 2 Durdle Door to Swyre Head
Time 30 minutes
Miles 0.5 miles
On the way to Swyre Head, I pass below Durdle Door Caravan Park, which has stunning sea views. I leave the crowds behind and things begin to be more peaceful. All I can hear is the rhythmic splash of the sea and the skylarks. After a short upward climb, I descend into Scratchy Bottom. Honestly, that's its name. The steep downward slope pushes my feet hard into the toes of my boots. Looking out to sea there is the rock known as the Bull, then looking further up there are smaller rocks called the Blind Cow, the Cow and the Calf. There is
a whole herd of cattle out there.
The chalk cliffs of Scratchy Bottom tower above me. I am the only person there, which gives me a sense of insignificance amid the immensity of the majesty of nature.
The steep climb out of Scratchy Bottom towards Swyre Head is hard. As I puff and pant my way up, I wonder what I am going to see. I remember hearing a story about the Duke of Wellington, who, when out walking with a friend would try and guess what sort of country lay over the hill. I guessed there would be more white cliffs, but the view I was greeted with was even more spectacular than I could have imagined. Swyre Head was one of the highlights of the walk. The only other people near the summit are
a couple relaxing with cups of coffee.
Step 3 Swyre Head to Middle Bottom
Time 60 minutes
Miles 2.5 miles
As I follow the coast westward, I glance inland, where Swyre Head leads to a descent into
a trough. The walking is a bit easier and I can enjoy the view fully as I make my way towards Bats Head, another natural arch.
The wildlife and flowers I see alongside the path intrigue me. I narrowly miss treading on
a black, hairy caterpillar. Ugly as it is, I'm relieved that I haven't crushed it and saved another butterfly to please other walkers.
Then there is another steep incline as I go towards Middle Bottom. The wind has picked up at this point and it all feels wild and remote. The only people I see now are the hardcore walkers with sturdy boots, large backpacks. Their weathered faces indicate that they are doing the 630-mile South West Coast Path.
Step 4 Concrete beacon
to Newlands Farm
Time 60 minutes
Miles 2.5 miles
I make my way up another hill to a large concrete beacon and continue for 200 yards until I come to a gate. Going through the gate, I follow the fence north and then turn east, so
I am effectively going back on my route.
I follow a track at the top of a field and, 100 yards to my left is another beacon. The walking is relatively easy along this section through flat grassland.
Passing along a wall, I notice that there are three sculptures of fossils. It's a strange place to see artwork.
I continue through the field, pass through a gate and, after walking
a little further, can see Durdle Door Caravan Park. From a distance, the sun-splashed white tourers appear to me as
a Spanish village nestled in a valley. Perhaps I've been in the sun too long.
Upon passing through another gate,
I reach a sign pointing to Newlands Farm, which assures me that I am going in the right direction. After a third gateway, I follow the narrow path into the farmyard and past
the house. It all seems very domestic after
the wilds of the coast. I leave the farm and walk down the road, through the caravan site and just before I get to the car park at the top of Durdle Door, I follow the sign directing me left towards Lulworth Cove.
It is a gentle walk downhill through an open field, where the path narrows and I wade through vegetation. Where, I wonder, is this leading me? I soon find out as I approach the car park at Lulworth Cove.
My feet are hot, so I decide to walk an extra 200 yards to the cove at Lulworth. I can't tell you how good it was to get those hot boots off and cool my feet in the sea.
Extract from the article in the October 2007 issue
|
