Ghent lies about halfway between Bruges and Brussels. It, too, is a charming historical town, with its paved cobblestone streets over which trams and buses run. Yet it has managed to avoid what some may see as the touristy tweeness of Bruges.

1 BEGIN IN THE BELFRY
Head to the Tourist Information Centre at the Belfort (belfry) for an informative guided tour. It runs a variety of tours lasting from three-and-a-half hours upwards; some even include refreshments in the form of food- and wine-tasting. Prices start from €5. It is also possible to book a personal guide for around €50 per couple. And, of course, all the guides speak English.

2 THREE OF THE BEST
St Michielsbrug (St Michael’s Bridge), spanning the River Leie adjacent to St Michielskerk (St Michael’s Church), is an ideal place to stand and take in the three towers: St Niklaaskerk (St Nicholas’ Church), the Belfort and St Baafskathedrall (St Bavo’s Cathedral). The bridge looks older than it is, having been built as recently as 1913 for a city exhibition. At the centre of the bridge is a lamp standard beneath a statue of St Michael slaying a dragon. A dragon also tops the Belfry, but this one is friend rather than foe and is said to have guarded the city for centuries.

3 A POWERHOUSE OF THE PAST
From the bridge you also look down on the city’s original port – the Graslei. This has recently been restored to its former glory, reflecting the days in the Middle Ages when Ghent was a centre of world trade. About halfway along the eastern side of the River Leie is the Gildehuis van de Vrije Schippers (Guildhouse of the Free Boatmen), the former home of the wealthy boatmen. The less prosperous boatmen had their headquarters in a building on the opposite bank. Today it is an upmarket restaurant.

4 HAVE A BUTCHER'S AT THIS
Not far from the Graslei is the Groentenmarkt (vegetable market) and the Vleesuis (Butchers’ Hall). Dating back to the early 15th century, the Vleeshuis has recently been restored, but without disturbing the superb timber roof. The rafters and joists are huge, while the whole roof looks like an inverted boat; not surprising since it was built by the city’s boatmakers. Hanging from the roof are magnificent hams known as Gandas – Ganda being the original name for the city. Along one wall is a café, while outside are the buildings from where, in medieval times, the cheaper meat was sold to the poorer citizens. At the end of the building is the Toll House, claimed to be Ghent’s smallest pub. It used to have a gallows nearby from where hanged criminals were left to rot.

5 THE CASTLE OF THE COUNTS
Bang in the centre of the old city is Gravenkasteel – Castle of the Counts. Dating from about 1180, it was built on the site of a stronghold of Philip van der Elzas, Count of Flanders. Over the centuries the castle has been put to many, uses including housing a mint, a court and a jail. In the 19th century it was used as a cotton mill, though fire brought that business to an end. Today, Gravenkasteel is a museum featuring, among other things, instruments of torture and weapons. Near the main entrance is what appears to be a giant spider’s web, which was erected as part of the city’s millennium celebrations.

6 THE TALE OF MAD MEG
On the east bank of the River Leie is another piece of Ghent’s history. Dulle Griet – or ‘Mad Meg’ – was a cannon intended to protect Ghent from an invasion by the Spanish in the 15th century, but when she was fired for the first time the barrell cracked and the cannon ball rolled out and plopped into the water. That was the first, and last time, Meg was ever heard again.

7 ADORATION OF THE LAMB OF GOD
In St Baafskathedrall is one of the world’s greatest medieval paintings – The Adoration of the Lamb of God by Jan Van Eyck. It is made up of 11 huge panels and, although almost 700 years old, the vivid colours look like they are just drying. It costs €2.50 to view and this includes an English audio presentation.