| Great escapes: Catalonia 2 |
Having covered the southern half of the Costa Brava, from Blanes to Begur (see previous page) our next trip was up the northern stretch of the coastline. From Begur, north to Cadaques, it weaves in and out amongst some of the best-known resorts and places of interest. This is the area of Catalonia known as the Emporda Plain.
1. Beautiful Begur
Our day out on this tour covered about 157km (98 miles). Being based at Camping Interpals, Platja de Pals, we were only minutes from Begur and 5km from Pals, the medieval walled village which we had visited the previous day.
Begur is a picturesque spot and select tourist resort, overlooks a series of creeks from its perch above the sea. Its highest point offers an elevated view of the town and its jumble of streets, crowned by a15th-century castle.
2. Castle in Torroella del Montgri
From Pals, the Gl650 travels for 9km to Torroella del Montgri, noted for its interesting walled area. Torroella has retained its Roman appearance with two main streets meeting at an arcaded square. The castle can be reached by a signposted path and means an hour's walk but the reward is an exceptional view. The sea and coastline make an extraordinary picture as does the Gavarres mountain range, rising in the south.
3. Diving into the Islas Medes
A diversion here was to follow the Gl641 road for 5km to L'Estartit. From here Islas Medes, the small archipelago of seven islets and coral reefs, can be accessed.
Trips around the islands in glass-bottomed boats allow visitors to appreciate and admire the underwater scenery and glimpse some of the thousand and more varieties of marine life.
This site is of particular interest to ecologists and is popular with amateur divers. These islands, which were once a refuge for pirates and smugglers, are today a nature reserve and one of the Baix Emporda's greatest ecological treasures.
4. L'Escala and Roman ruins
Back on course, and within 18km on the GI640/632 road we arrived at the tourist resort of L'Escala with its long-established fishing tradition.
Quite taken by its sandy beaches and its harbour, this was where we decided to eat lunch. One of the pleasures for us, in Spain, is eating fish and we discovered that it was anchovies in which this resort specialised.
L'Escala is also where you enter the ruins of the Greek colony of Empuries. The Greco-Roman ruins here are Catalonia's most important archaeological site and its most visited.
Built on an outstanding site beside the sea, Emporion (as it was known to the Greeks) was colonised in 550BC as a trading post, after which it became an important port. Here, three towns can be traced: the old town of Palaiapolis, the new Neapolis and the Roman town. A guide book and map leads you past the Greek gates, uphill and through the ancient streets of the Roman city. On the way you pass the remains of a market place, stone walls of one-time dwellings, broken pillars which mark out the forum and, with a little imagination, the ghost of Empuries comes alive. Unfortunately, though, we were not allowed to take photographs.
5. The land that captivated Dali
Leaving Empuries, the GI652/614 road turns inland for 16kms, over the Emporda Plain to Castello d'Empuries, its centre and old quarter unscathed by tourism and modern-day life.
The ruins of the ancient walls, towers and a medieval bridge can be visited and here the Gothic style in this region is illustrated by the imposing church of Santa Maria.
This Alt Emporda region also boasts natural areas of outstanding environmental interest. The Aiguamolls de l'Emporda National Park is situated between the towns of Castello d'Empuries, Empuriabrava and Sant Pere Pescador and has a large concentration of flora and fauna. Empuriabrava, its white villas glistening in the sunlight, is a residential area with a luxury marina. It is laid out around a network of navigable canals along which locals can sail right up to their front doors. Nothing glorifies the charm of this region more than remembering that Alt Emporda is the land that captivated the painter Salvador Dali. It was the creek of Port-Lligat on the Cap de Creus peninsula that Dali choose for his summer residence.
6. Captivating Cadaques
The Cap de Creus Natural Park covering a surface area of 10,787 hectares on land and 3,073 hectares of sea, encompasses such delightful towns as Roses and Cadaques.
The latter, even before we got here, was pinpointed on the map as 'a must' to visit on the Costa Brava. We were captivated by this fishing village, which makes a point of preserving its own
personality in the Emporda region.
What you will find pleasing about Cadaques is its delightful setting. Tucked behind the last of the Pyrenean foothills, it lies south of the Cap de Creus, surrounded by mountains.
This all-white fishing village, resort and artists' colony is likened to a Greek island scene. Its labyrinth of narrow streets conceal numerous chic shops and art galleries. The Maritim is the focal point but what we enjoyed best was sitting back with a long drink on the waterfront, observing life in this away-from-it-all haven.
Sights worth seeing in the town include the interior and Baroque altarpiece of the Iglesia de Santa Maria church. And, the Museu Perro-Moore in the old town has
a most interesting collection of
graphic arts, including works by Salvador Dali.
If time permits it's a pleasant, two kilometre walk along the beach to the nearby creek of Port-Lligat. It's a one-street village and Dali's whitewashed house is not difficult to spot: it has stone monkeys and sculpted eggs on its roof.
By now, it was now time to retrace our steps over the not-to-be-hurried GI614 mountain road which separates Cadaques from Roses. This road twists and bends along at an incredible height and is worth driving along for the wonderful scenery. The hillsides here are layered with terraces which cradle pines and olive groves while below, the seascapes offer the Golf de Roses and beyond.
The former fishing village of Roses has blossomed into a flourishing resort (not unlike Nice on the Cote d'Azur) with a magnificent, long, sandy beach said to be an ideal spot to catch the sunset.
• We made our way back to base at Platja de Pals via the C260 road to Castello; the local road to Viladama; then the GI623/632/640 to Torroella and the GI650 to Pals and site - time to put our feet up and enjoy a drink. |
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Where we stayed:
Camping Interpals,
Av Mediterrania s/n, E-17256 Platja de Pals. Tel 0034 972 63 61 79. Situated in one of the Costa Brava's most popular spots with direct access to the beach.
Other recommended base camp:
Camping Treumal, 17250 Platja D'Aro (Costa Brava).
Tel 0034 972 65 10 95
Attractions:
Torroella de Montgri
• The arcaded Plaza Mayor
• The hermitage of Santa Catalina and the Tower of Witches
• Torroella Music Festival.
Tel 972 76 06 05
L'Estartit has a 3km-long beach.
L'Escala is a favourite spot for wind surfing.
Empuries (Emporium) Chosen to receive the Olympic torch for the 1992 Games in Barcelona.
Empuries Museum, Afores, L'Escala. Tel 972 77 02 08. Open 10am-8pm summer, 10am-6pm winter.
Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art, Monturiol, 15, Cadaques. Tel 972 25 88 77. Open 10.20am-1pm and 5-9pm
Recommended map:
Michelin (Orange) 443.
Tourist information offices:
L'Estartit Passeig Maritim.
Tel 972 75 19 10:
L'Escala Placa de les Escoles, 1.Tel 972 77 06 03.
Castello d'Empuries Puigmal, 1 Empuriabrava.
Tel 972 45 08 02
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