| Great escapes: Catalonia 3 |
No stay in Catalonia would be complete without a trip to Barcelona, Spain's second city. This ancient Mediterranean seaport today stands out as one of Europe's most attractive and modern cities and has a thriving cultural centre.
Sightseeing in Barcelona, or any other large metropolis, requires planning, and by far the best decision is to leave the car behind and travel by local transport. Camping not too far from the city is another plus. Our approach to seeing Barcelona was to earmark places of interest within a radius of what we deemed possible to achieve in one day.
We stayed at Camping Vilanova Park, Vilanova i la Geltru which lies 45km south of Barcelona. Being there in low season, we took the train to the city (in high season we would have had the option of an hourly bus service). In less than half an hour's train journey we had arrived in the city centre.
Barcelona is made up of two contrasting parts. One is the old city which lies between the port and the Placa de Catalunya. The other is the Eixample (widening) area where you find most of Barcelona's Moderniste architecture. This grid-patterned expansion north of old Barcelona was built in 1860, after the city's third set of walls were demolished.
Our choice was to see as much as possible of the old city which meant The Rambla, Barcelona's best-known promenade and the Barri Gotic, its Gothic Quarter.
The mapped-out walking itineraries, of which there are several, suggested that each walk covers around 3km and takes three hours or so. Rather a heavy day's sightseeing we thought, so getting down to the drawing board we did a bit of picking and choosing. With an abundance of sights on offer being logical was a tad difficult.
1. Placa Reial
Firstly, to get caught up in the wonderful atmosphere of this city we lingered a while on the Placa Reial, a large square which lies just off the Rambla in the Gothic Quarter. Here, some of Barcelona's best-preserved architecture is on view. Cafes merge among the arcades of elaborate
buildings where the centrepiece is a fountain of the Three Graces, and flanked by lamp-posts designed by Antonio Gaudi y Cornet (the famous and highly-individualistic Spanish architect who lived from 1852 until 1926).
Next, we ventured through a maze of narrow streets to the Placa del Rei. On this square stand important medieval buildings, one being the Casa Padellas which houses the museum called Museu de la Historia de la Ciutat.
2. Placa Portal de la Pau
Return to the Rambla to get your bearings. Then, from the Placa Reial, it is a short stroll to the seafront and the Placa Portal de la Pau which interrupts the waterfront boulevard named for Columbus: Passeig de Colom. Here, a statue of the explorer stands high on a towering column. Take the lift to the top of the monument for a panoramic view over the city.
3. Museu Maritim
Should you get side-tracked to the port area, beyond the Columbus monument on the Rambla de Mar with its shopping centre, IMAX theatre and aquarium, you can write off a few hours, even take a boat trip, or cable car ride.
To the right, at the foot of the Rambla, is the Museu Maritim housed in the 13th-century Drassanes Reials (Royal shipyards). For those interested in all things maritime it is full of ships, nautical gear, figureheads, charts and a
life-size reconstructed galley.
4. Palau Guell and Las Ramblas
In Barcelona, Gaudi's influence is everywhere, in fact one is compelled to gasp in disbelief at this architect's originality and unmistakable style.
While devotees of Gaudi are able to take a dedicated tour, the highlight of our day was a visit to the Palau Guell. This mansion, on the Carrer
Nou de la Rambla, was built by Gaudi in 1889 for the textile baron named Count Eusbi de Guell.
Walking down Las Ramblas you soon discover that it is a collective name for this elongated street and in fact within the approximate one-mile thoroughfare which runs from the Placa de Catalunya to the foot of the Columbus monument, the avenues (from west to east) change their names five times: Ramblas de Canaletes, dels Estudis, de Sant Josep, dels Caputxins and de Santa Monica. This is where the people of Barcelona enact the ritual of paseo, the sunset stroll before a late evening meal.
What a wonderful sight for the visitor, Barcelona's best-known promenade is tree lined and a
non-stop, colourful parade. Here you see flower stalls, bird vendors, musicians, artists, kiosks, a wealth of open-air cafes and Barcelona's most spectacular food market. Known as the Mercat de Sant Josep it is a classic, iron-covered and colonnaded 19th-century
market with eye-boggling displays of vegetables, fruit, meat, fish, nuts and confectionery.
5. Palau de la Virreina
Continuing along the Rambla, we headed for the Palau de la Virreina built in 1778 and one of the most sumptuous buildings in the area. It is a major exhibition centre for paintings, historical items and photography. The municipal tourist office is also housed here and, if closed, a
web-linked computer can be operated by credit card.
6. Gran Teatre del Liceu
Another cultural landmark worth finding, its façade looking onto the Rambla dels Caputxins, is the Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona's much-cherished opera house which was built in 1848. Even if you miss out on being able to attend an opera there, just to see one of the largest and most majestic auditoriums in the world is well worth the visit.
7. Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu
Another sight in this area which you might try to fit in is the Antic Hospital de la Santa Creu. This medieval hospital surrounded by a cluster of
15th-century buildings is now home to a number of cultural
institutions. Most impressive here is the lovely old courtyard with Renaissance columns.
8. Placa de Catalunya
It is when you arrive in the Placa de Catalunya that you know you have reached the head of Las Ramblas and the stepping stone between the old quarter and The Eixample, which can justly boast some of the most creative buildings ever designed, not least the amazing Gaudi projects.
Our verdict on Barcelona has to be that although we may only have touched on the city's amazing sights on our day out, we certainly captured a never-to-be forgotten first impression of this lovely city.
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Where we stayed:
Camping Vilanova Park, Aptdo 64, 08800 Vilanova i la Geltru, (Barcelona). Situated 45kms south of Barcelona.
Tel (00 34) 93 893 34 02.
Other recommended base camp:
Camping Botanic Bona Vista (Kim), 08370, Calella.
Tel: 0034 931 7692 488
Attractions:
Barcelona walking tour
Tours of the city's Gothic Quarter with a professional guide (English spoken). Information, tel 90 630 12 82
Barcelona Bus Turistic The independent way to see the city. Tel 90 630 12 82
Gaudi Tour Experience and understand Gaudi's
architecture (tours in English). Information, tel 93 484 89 09
Placa del Rei The city's impressive museum of history. Underground lie the remains of the old Roman City.
Museu Maritim, Placa Portal de la Pau, 1. 'The great sea adventure'. Open Tues-Sun,
10 am- 7 pm.
Palau de la Virreina, Rambla
de la Flors 99. A major exhibition centre for paintings, photography and historical items. Tel 93 301 77 75
Information:
Tourist Information Centre of Barcelona, Placa de Catalunya, 17-S. Tel 90 630 12 82
Local transport Camping Vilanova Park's reception has train timetables and details. |
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