| Great escapes: Catalonia 4 |
If asked to choose a resort on the Costa Brava where we could happily while away a day, it would have to be Tossa de Mar, situated 100km from the French border and 95km from the city of Barcelona. This is a resort which is glorified by its old quarter and over-development has been kept to a minimum.
The coastline encompassing the resort is a delight of coves and beaches which stretch for 14km. And its hinterland, around the Massif of Cadiretes, is a nature and wildlife reserve. Extending over most of Tossa's total area it offers walking routes through the mountainous territory which lies between the sea and the plain.
Wherever you are based on the Costa Brava, Tossa de Mar is easily accessible. So impressed were we with this resort we made several journeys to it from our base camp at Blanes. Our first sighting of it was from the scenic GI 682 road
- an incredible view which leaves a lasting impression.
1. The Vila Vella
Tossa's crowning glory is the Vila Vella, or old town. Within the district of La Selva it can boast the most important medieval town walls in the region, characterised by the spectacular defence towers guarding its ancient centre. The first documentary mention of medieval Tossa dates from the year 966.
The castle, built in 1187, was used for coastal defence.It was between the 12th and 14th centuries that the walled enclosure was built to guard against pirate raids and today, almost all of the original perimeter is conserved, along with three large towers: Torre del Codolar, Torre de les Hores and Torre de Joanas.
The town walls situated on the Tossa headland are now the only surviving example of a fortified medieval town on the Catalan coast. Access to the enclosure is through a gateway and arch once topped with three coats of arms. Within the ramparts once stood a church, as well as about 80 houses some of which are still inhabited.
2. Municipal Museum
Within the walls you'll find the Municipal Museum, an outstanding building regarded as the most noble medieval building within the enclosure of the Vila Vella. It was reconstructed in the 18th century, then restored and recently enlarged. The museum first opened in1935 in the ancient house known as Falguera - an important building in the walled precinct of the Vila Vella during the medieval period. For many centuries the Falgueras had represented the Abbot of Santa Maria de Ripoll who was the feudal lord of the village.
The museum holds an important collection of modern art, with works by national and international artists who frequented Tossa during the thirties. And just as important is the archaeological
section of the museum which demonstrates the presence of man in this township from the Palaeolithic period until the Middle Ages. Of particular interest is the mosaic of the Roman Villa's hall dating from the fourth and fifth centuries.
The Vila Vella, its museum and fascinating history is very much part of Tossa de Mar's appeal. And whether you are a history buff or not, it is difficult not to appreciate its delightful old streets and ancient dwellings.
3. San Vicente
The remains of the former church of San Vicente, are still awe-inspiring. Its crumbling walls glisten in the sun and look down over the Tossa of this age and the sweeping curve of its beach, Platja Gran, in one of its lovely sandy bays which are washed by the blue waters of the Mediterranean.
Flower of the sea
Basking in glorious Mediterranean weather, Tossa de Mar claims a year-round agreeable climate. Temperatures soar in summer and remain agreeably warm in spring, autumn and winter.
Known as 'the flower of the sea' the privileged seaside position of the town on the wide bay of Tossa is virtually closed off by a mass of islands. These islands which in past times made an effective contribution to the prosperity of the port, today play a protective role of closing off the bay to the east of the town within which lies Tossa's two main beaches, Mar Gran and Sa Palma.
4. Beach life
If you intend to spend much time basking on one of Tossa's fine beaches, just about every service you might require is to hand, ranging from beach bars, to hammocks, parasols and
paddle-boats.
For water sports enthusiasts there is water skiing and para-sailing. If you don't fancy that, there are boat trips to take or excursions in a glass-bottom boat.
One tip about the beach here is that if you arrive early you are able to park in the dedicated car park and then just hop across the wooden footbridge to the sand.
There is a wide range of restaurants and eating establishments within sight, promising a gastronomic experience. Tossa is one of those towns on Girona's coastline where you can eat well. Its restaurants offer a wide range of specialities typical of the Costa Brava such as steamed mussels, sauteed octopus, stuffed squid, grilled sardines with garlic and parsley and others. Perhaps lobster Tossa-style is the most outstanding dish from the local repertoire and this is served in only the best restaurants.
Out of town
Away from the golden beaches and sparkling sea a wealth of nature and wildlife may lead you to explore the mountainous, wooded zones which contribute so much to the overall landscape.
Small valleys and mountain hollows are furrowed with river-beds which dry up during summer although there are springs to provide water throughout the year. A combination of
humidity and rain brought on by the easterly winds mean that flora and fauna typical of central European areas are found here, together with genuine Mediterranean species which constitute one of the main ecological attractions of this massif.
To appreciate this important natural aspect of Tossa, the town council has organised a network of clearly-signposted paths which can be covered either on foot or by mountain bike.
For a relatively small resort we have to report that there is much more to Tossa than space has permitted us to include. After only one day spent in and around this town, Tossa de Mar has become our favourite resort on the Costa Brava.
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Where we stayed:
Beach Camp El Pinar, C/Villa de Madrid, E-17300, Blanes (Girona) Tel: 0034 972 33 10 83. Situated around 15Kms south of Tossa de Mar.
Other recommended base camps:
Camping Botanic Bona Vista (Kim), 08370 Calella. Tel 00 34 93 769 24 88
Camping Treumal, 17250 Platja d'Aro. Tel 00 34 972 651095
Camping Interpals, Av Mediterranean, 17256 Platja de Pals. Tel 00 34 972 63 61 79
Attractions:
The House of Culture and Chapel of Sant Miquel ancient hospital and nunnery built in 1773.
The parish Church of Sant Vicenc dating from 1755 to replace the old church of the walled city.
The Chapel del Socors built in 1593 and enlarged in the
18th century.
The Municipal Museum in the Vila Vella, houses an archaeological section, ceramics and glassware. There are permanent exhibition rooms and temporary exhibits.
Beaches There are around 15 beaches and coves in the Tossa de Mar region: four around
the resort and 11 within a 5km radius.
Tourist information:
Av. El Pelegri, 25 17320 Tossa de Mar.
Tel 00 34 972 34 01 08 |
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