| Great escapes: Catalonia 5 |
To do justice to the 'Romanesque Route' which lies along the twisting, winding roads leading from Barcelona through the Pyrenees takes time: to do it justice, we estimate a minimum of five days, for eventually you enter France and Andorra. Your trip would be very well rewarded, though, for along this route lies a wealth of Romanesque riches.
A day trip along the Roman road
However, you might follow our example and take a day to exult in breathtaking scenery, with enough time left to take in the magnificence of Montserrat, the mountain, and its monastery.
Having been persuaded that visiting the latter is an almost obligatory trip when in the Catalonia region, we tagged on at the end of the recommended tourist route for the scenic vistas which appear around every twist and turn.
This north-eastern corner of Spain is home to the earliest Romanesque style in the country. Its historical links with Italy and France meant that the Pyrenean valleys were influenced by Lombardy from the 11th century.
The serrated mountain
It was during the Romanesque period that the Monasterio de Montserrat, now one of Catalonia's most visited tourists sites, was founded. Its name is derived from the mountain: a range of dramatic, grey fingers of rock which form an incredible backdrop to this revered place. Its main attraction is La Moreneta (Black Madonna). Whichever draws you to Montserrat, be it the mountain or the monastery, by the end of the visit both will have made an indelible impression on you.
No matter where you are based in Catalonia, Montserrat is easily accessed. It lies north west of Barcelona and, with the excellent autopista routes which run east and west of the capital to join up with the A18 running north, it is within a comfortable drive. The best approach is to drive there from the west as excellent views are guaranteed along the way. This is the route we choose.
Geographically, Montserrat mountain is to the right of the Llobregat River, between the Pla de Bages and the coast. It is in the middle of the pre-coastal mountain range and its highest peak is Sant Jeroni at 1,236m.
The name 'Montserrat' means 'serrated mountain' - the conglomerate of hardened rocks and limestone makes the mountains unusually durable and able to withstand erosion.
The vegetation on Montserrat is generally Mediterranean oaks and, according to botanists, the area boasts some of the best oak forests in southern Europe.
Montserrat mountains have not escaped man: Montros was scaled for the first time in 1880 and since then more routes have been opened. Climbing in this area began to gain importance over the years when the peak of Echoes was reached in 1922.Today all the major peaks have been conquered and there are underground caves which attract exploration.
Over past decades, the combination of so many people visiting the area and the damage caused by forest fires had such a devastating effect on the plant life and animal population that the Catalonian government declared the area, a natural park.
The best museum in Catalonia
Several caves on the mountain were inhabited during prehistoric times and, after the first explorations were published in 1925, they gained renown as sites where Neolithic pottery was to be found. This was when Catalonia discovered its first pottery from this period, giving rise to the expression 'Montserrat pottery'.
The museum here at Montserrat is one of the most interesting in Catalonia and the collections include archaeological objects from The Holy Land and Cyprus.
The paintings on display date from the 13th to the 18th centuries and were mostly acquired in Italy between 1914 and 1920. These include painters such are El Greco, Caravaggio and Luca Giordano. A collection of Catalan paintings and sculpture from the mid 19th to the mid 20th centuries feature work by important artists such as Mir, Picasso and Dali. There is a group of French impressionist paintings, too, by Monet, Degas, Poliakoff and others.
Magnificent monastery and basilica
Those who only want to visit the monastery can choose to take a guided tour or follow a recommended route.
It is emphasised to all tourists that the most important part of visiting Montserrat should be not only to enjoy the architecture - its religious, cultural, historical and ecological values symbolically express the life of the people of
the area.
So awe-inspiring is the basilica and its chapels that they defy description - suffice to reiterate what has been said that 'the architects, painters and sculptors who decorated it were considered 'masters of Catalan modernism and the symbolism of the time'.
Although only the basilica and museum are regularly open to the public, many head for Abbot Oliba Square which is a pleasant place in which to spend time. Here, apart from the buildings where pilgrims lodge, you will find restaurants and a bar.
Funiculars and hermits
The scenic vistas from the very
top of the mountain are not to be missed and, for extraordinary
viewpoints, you are soon pointed in the direction of the many hermitages dotted around the
top of the mountain. Try the hermitage of Sant Joan, reached
by funicular railway - you will be rewarded by breathtaking views.
On the Romanesque road through Catalonia, Montserrat is not to be missed. |
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Where to stay:
Camping La Torre del Sol E-43300 Montroig del Camp, Tarragona.
Camping Vilanova Park
Aptdo 64, 08800 Vilanova i la Geltru, Barcelona
Camping Botanic Bona Vista (Kim) 08370 Calella
Beach Camp El Pinar
C/Villa de Madrid, E-17300
Blanes Camping Treumal
17250, Platja d'Aro
Camping Interpals
Av. Mediterrania s/n, E-17256, Platja de Pals
Attractions:
The exceptional mountain and valley scenery of Montserrat.
Abbot Oliba Square and the main area of the shrine.
The Monastery Museum with its wealth of art treasures.
Recommended walks of varying lengths from 20 minutes to
1hr 15 minutes.
The mountain chapels, either on foot or by funicular railway.
The walk to St.Cecilia, around 4km, is achievable. (You can go by car if you wish). Start at the exit on the road to Montserrat.
Recommended Map:
Michelin (Orange) No.443
Tourist Information:
Placa Antoni Lopez, 5, 1r, 08002 Barcelona. Tel 93 290 66 88
Oficina del Patronat de la Muntanya de Montserrat, 08199 Montserrat. Tel 93 828 40 07.
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