| Great escapes: Catalonia 6 |
The Province of Tarragona lies in southern Catalonia, its shoreline aglow with golden beaches which lend their name to the Costa Dorada (Golden Coast).
The city of Tarragona is the region's second port but to many this name promises classical ruins. Capital of the Roman province of Tarraconensis it was a major city by the first century BC and the Empire's stronghold in Spain. After St. Paul preached here in AD58, Tarragona also became the seat of the Christian church.
Today, Tarragona is a modern town enhanced by its colourful sea front, with a past evidenced by an abundance of Roman monuments.
1. Tarragona old town
If we were to approach Tarragona from Barcelona, we were told, the triumphal arch of Bera dating from the third century BC would come into view.
Another option would be to approach from the direction of Lleida - in which case you would glimpse the Roman aqueduct which carried fresh water to the city, 32km from the River Gayo.
However, we approached from our base campsite Camping La Torre del Sol, 27km south of the city. So, before the delights of the former Tarragona came into view we had to pass the less gainly sights of today's age.
Tarragona is divided in two: by the Rambla Vella area, the modern-day city to the south; and the old town with its Roman remains which lies to the north.
It is recommended that you start your tour at the Rambla Nova, a long promenade shaded by acacia trees and lined with boutiques, chic shops, pavement cafes and modern buildings. It ends at the Balco del Mediterrani - a balcony offering a sweeping panorama of the sea, beach and the amphitheatre below. Situated at the water's edge, this amphitheatre is amazingly well preserved and in its centre are the remnants of two churches, one of which marks the martyrdom of three Christians in AD 259.
North of the amphitheatre is the Museu Arqueologic, on the Passeig de Sant Antoni. The exhibits here include sculptures, tombstones and mosaics from Tarragona's Roman period. You can take a walk along the Passeig Arqueologic, just north of the cathedral and, by way of a shaded cypress tree walkway pass the ancient walls that bear 2000 years of history, plus ancient gates, grottoes, statues and artefacts which also testify to Roman Tarragona.
2. Cambrils and Salou by the sea
When the Romans and the city of Tarragona become too much, there are other options around this province. One is to stay with the coast and stop off at known resorts such as Salou, or even make it to the edge of this town and find Port Aventura, a huge amusement park which swoops you away on an entertaining 'world tour'. Divided into different geographical zones, each focuses on a particular theme.
Another place to see is Cambrils with its pretty marina, renowned for good food. Here, you could stop for a spot of lunch and feast on the the succulent fish on offer.
3. Wines on the 'Route of the Priory'
From Cambrils, we headed inland and followed the Route of the Priory through an area known for the quality of its wines. Produced since the 12th century, the legendary wines of this area were produced by the Carthusian monks. Over the centuries the vineyards have spread across the Priorat district taking in 24 towns, the capital of which is Falset.
The mountain ranges of Prades, La Llena and El Montsant form a backdrop to this entire wine region which fans out and descends towards the River d'Ebre.
The Priory route covers about 114km (72miles) taking in the villages of historical Priorat. We
left Tarragona, heading to Reus on the N420.
Having reached Reus, we then made a detour towards Les Borges del Camp on the local road numbered C242, then continued for 17km, along a scenic, twisting extravaganza overlooked by the Prades mountains.
4. Along the way...
It was then a left turn at the bridge over the Siurana river onto the T702 for 6km to Pobeleda, an old town steeped in tradition. Here there are ancient dwellings bearing old inscriptions, old iron fountains and the hermitage of Maria Assumpta rising up in the middle of a pine forest. There are several old wine cellars to visit and this is an excellent town in which to taste the good table wines of the Priorat.
From Poboleda it is 6km to Scala Dei which belongs to the village of La Morera and is the spiritual capital of the Priorat. La Cartoix, (the Charterhouse) dated 1163 is partly in ruins but conserves its majestic air. It was here that the monks taught the peasants to grow grapes for the production of wine. La Morera is small and pretty. Visit its wine cellars for a taste of the local produce.
Moving on to La Vilella Alta 5km south of Scala Dei, you approach the town via a steep road leading to the top of the hill. Its square and streets have conserved their character and the townsfolk have earned a reputation for being hospitable. The finest olive oils are produced here by the local co-operative and you will also find wines from all over the Priorat.
From here, it is only 2km to La Vilella Baixa, a captivating village with narrow, irregular streets. It stands on rocks which rise out of the Montsant river, straddled by a Romanesque bridge.
Nearby Gratallops on the T710 a further 5km south, is the centre of the district, where all roads converge. This is the hub of the Priorat wine bottling industry and the location of the Priorat Co-Operative. People travel here to purchase the famous wines and in the village square you can still see an artisan barrel maker working and shaping the barrels.
Nearing the end of the Priory Route we continued from Gratallops, 9km south to Falset. This town gathers at the foot of a hill where the castle still stands. In the town, the colonnaded Plaza de la Quartera is an impressive sight and nearby is the baroque church of Santa Maria.
We finally returned to Tarragona from Falset, the wine capital of this region, via the A420/N420.
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Where we stayed:
Camping La Torre del Sol, 43300 Montroig del Camp (Tarragona). Tel 0034 977 81 04 86. This is an ideal family site beside the beach, with a superb pool complex, lush vegetation and quality facilities.
Other recommended base camp:
Camping Vilanova Park, 08800 Vilanova i la Geltru.
Tel 0034 93 893 34 02
Attractions:
Old quarter of Tarragona for the remains of the Amphitheatre, views of the sea and proximity to the beach.
Museu Arqueologic, Tarragona Remnants from a temple of Jupiter - there are impressive marble heads, too.
Cathedral de Santa Tecla is the largest cathedral in Catalonia. The main attraction is the alterpiece of St.Tecla: the cloister and the 52 Renaissance tapestries in the diocesan museum.
Pobeleda Take a walk through the village, then sample the
local cuisine and wines of the Priorat district.
La Vilella Alta Its old streets and square are interesting.
La Vilella Baixa rises up against the hillside. This town has narrow, irregular streets.
Recommended map:
Michelin (Orange) No.443
Tourist information offices:
Tarragona Fortuny, 4. Tel 977 23 34 15. Carrer Major, 39, Tarragona. Tel 977 29 62 24. |
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