| Great escapes: Catalonia 7 |
Venture inland from Sitges to sample the delights of rustic Catalonia and villages and churches dating from medieval times.
If a pretty resort, a wine town of note, two spectacular monasteries and an ancient city sound interesting, then you might follow this day tour route which lies south west of Barcelona.
1. Ever-popular Sitges
On our itinerary we have included Sitges, about 30km south of the city. This is one of the most popular resorts on the Costa Dorada, known for its attractive promenade, beaches and museums. Wine buffs will appreciate a stop at Villafranca del Penedes but others may linger longer at the Monasteries of Santes Crues and Santa Maria De Poblet. Or, perhaps a relaxing stroll through the ancient city of Montblanc would also appeal.
We made a 180km (112mile) round trip starting at Camping Vilanova Park Vilanova i la Geltru. Although we had pitched at a campsite no more than a ten-minute drive from Sitges the resort had, until now, escaped our attention. To correct this oversight we started our day off here, enjoyed a leisurely coffee and a stroll along the promenade. Later, we promised ourselves we would return and explore its old quarter and reputed fine museums in detail.
2. Wine in Vilafranca del Penedes
We headed out from Sitges, towards Sant Pere deRibes and then by way of the scenic B211/C244 road to Vilafranca del Penedes, a pleasant 24km drive. Time spent here depends on your interest in wine, but this is the wine capital of Catalonia. The Penedes region produces some first-rate red and white table wines, in addition to sparkling wine – the best being made by the champagnois method.
On arrival, it is best to park in the underground car park and take the 10-minute walk to the wine
museum – the Museu dei Vi. Here, in this 14th-century palace you can see a replica of a wine cellar and the huge wooden presses and tools the vintners used. It is also possible to sample and buy wines produced by local vintners.
The Placa Jaume I, where you will find the museum, is a spacious square and here, too, stands the Basilica de Santa Maria with its Gothic portal and impressive statues.
3. Santes Creus monastery
It was still early in the day, so we took the autopista A7/A2 for 34km west, to exit11 where we joined the TP2002 to Santes Creus.
Santes Creus takes its name from the famous Cistercian monastery. Today, the town makes its living from farming and tourism. One notable, modernistic building designed in 1919 by the architect Cesar Martinell (a follower of Gaudi) houses the Agricultural Co-operative.
The almost completely-restored monastery of Santes Creus has close ties with the history of Catalonia, its origin going back to 1158. Until the early 19th century this monastery prospered until the War of Independence and later the Constitutional Triennium. By 1835 the monks had all left and this magnificent building became a prison. In 1921 this monastery was declared a protected monument, has since been restored.
A tour of the building reveals a Gothic cloister with delicate columns adorned with sculptures of flowers and animals. In the cross-shaped church with its lovely, rose window are the tombs of the 13th and 14th Catalan monarchs Pedro II and Jaume II.
To help digest all the magnificence of Santes Creus, descend to the lower part of the town where you can find a café and sample the toothsome local almond pastry.
4. Montblanc
Leaving Santes Crues via the TP2002 to El Pont d'Armentera and the scenic T200 to El Pla de Sta. Maria we joined the A2 at Junction 10 and left at exit 9 for Montblanc, a distance of 24 kms.
This medieval city located on a hilltop, and surrounded by 14th-century wa
lls interrupted by a series of towers, commands a sweeping view over huge plains covered with vines and almond trees. During the middle ages, Montblanc was a thriving
community and "the capital of the district of Conca de Barbera, located between the Anguera and Francoli rivers, in a place called Dues Aigues and later on Vilasalva" according to an ancient document we saw. It is also stated that in the 12th century Alfonso the First decreed that the town be moved to the other side of the Francoli river, to Pla de Santa Barbara, when it became known as Montblanc.
Behind its ancient city walls lie a labyrinth of tiny winding streets, steep flights of steps, Gothic churches with intricate, stained glass windows and an old convent housing a much-venerated 14th century alabaster statue. A special day in the old city is April 23rd when the locals re-enact the legend of St.George.
5. Santa Maria de Poblet
After leaving Montblanc on the N240/T700, a 10km drive brought us to the Monastery of Santa Maria de Poblet.
One of the great masterpieces of Spanish monastic architecture, this Cistercian monastery lies at the foot of the Prades Mountains. It originated from a donation made in 1141 and, by 1153 the community of monks had been established.
On a sunny day the cloister is an unforgettable sight, the light emphasises its incredible size as it casts shadows on the yellow sandstone. A guided tour leads through the royal pantheon with tombs of Catalan and Aragon Kings from the 12th century, the monks' dormitory, the church, library and wine cellar.
All this sightseeing proved to be thirsty work so before heading back by way of Tarragona we stopped for refreshments at the small spa town of L'Espluga de Francoli, only minutes from the monastery. Here, you will find one of the oldest co-operative wine cellars in Catalonia.
6. The guide books don't tell you
We returned by way of the N240 to Valls – a pleasant drive through country with olive groves, almond orchards and vines.
Valls is a town steeped in history. While it might not feature in the guide books as a special place of interest, it is distinguished by its honorary title 'Valls, birthplace of the castells', an expression popular in various parts of Catalonia. Indeed, the old part of the town reflects its medieval heritage.
We later joined the C246 to Vilanova i La Geltru and our base camp, having unveiled yet another corner Catalonia, happy to report that there is more to Catalonia than its Costa Brava and Costa Dorada coastlines – its hinterland, too, holds many secrets worth exploring.
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Where we stayed:
Camping Vilanova Park, Aptdo 64, 08800 Vilanova i la Geltru (Barcelona). Tel 0034 938 93 34 02. A hillside site with sea views situated midway between Barcelona and Tarragona.
Other recommended base camp:
Camping La Torre del Sol, Miami Playa, (Tarragona).
Tel 0034 877 81 13 06
Attractions:
Wildlife Park on site at Vilanova Park.
Museo del Cau Ferrat, Fonollar s/n Sitges. Tel 93 894 03 64. Paintings by Santiago Russinyol and El Greco, wrought iron collection, ceramics.
Museu dei Vi, Placa Jaume I. Vilafranca del Penedes. Local vintners act as hosts in the tasting room.
Sant Sadurni d'Anoia situated 11km north-east of Villafranca. Codorniu cava winery has miles of underground 'ageing cellars' which you tour in a special train.
Monasterio de Santes Crues See the Puerta Real (Royal door); fountain; Romanesque infirmary cloister and a massive wine cellar.
L'Espluga de Francoli Co-Operative wine cellars built in the Catalan Gothic style.
Recommended map:
Michelin (Orange) 443
Tourist information offices:
Barcelona Placa de Catalunya, 17-S. Tel 906 30 12 82 Montblanc Placa Major, 1.
Tel 977 86 0009.
Valls Placa del Blat, 1.
Tel 977 60 10 50
Tarragona: Fortuny, 4.
Tel 977 23 34 15 |
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