| Great escapes: Cornwall 2 |
| Smuggler's walk |
| Take the ferry across to the multi-faceted island of Hoy and enjoy attractions ranging from a geological marvel to a Nissen hut chapel |
This woodland walk takes you along the secluded banks of Frenchman's Creek, the name which
author Daphne du Maurier took for the title and subject matter of her best-known 1941 novel, in which a local beauty and a French pirate would meet. For hundreds of years, Cornwall's remote coves and creeks have provided cover not only for lovers but for smugglers, too. In the past, when the pilchard fishing haul was low, out of necessity the Cornish people turned to smuggling, bringing in contraband which ranged from brandy and tobacco to simpler necessities such as tin, wool and salt.
Despite the presence of the Gweek Customs House, then situated at the head of the Helford River estuary creeks such as Frenchman's offered sufficient concealment for French and English smugglers to be able to regularly run contraband into the country and many got away with it.
ROUTE 1
FRENCHMAN'S CREEK
Zero your trip meter. Turn right out of the campsite onto the B3280. At 2.3 miles turn left towards Helston (A394). Turn right at the mini roundabout (11.4 miles) to Falmouth (A394). Turn right at the mini-roundabout (11.9 miles) onto the A3083, signposted Lizard. Turn left onto the B3293 at 14.1 miles and left at 16.9 miles, to
Hetford. In Newton St Matins, turn right at theT-junction at 18.8 miles ('Helford 3 miles'). Turn left in 200 metres, to Helford. At 21.8 miles turn into Helford village pay-and-display car park (maximum cost £2).
1. Kestle Cottage
Walk out of the car park and turn right, down the lane to the ford and bridge. Don't cross the bridge but continue up the lane past the cottages and climb the path as it winds up the hill behind a thatched cottage, then follow the path through the woods. At the fork, turn right across a small stream and through an opening. Cross the stile into a field. Keep to the edge of this field and, at Kestle, walk through the farmyard, then through a gate between barns and Kestle Cottage.
2. Frenchman's Creek
Cross the road and continue down a track towards Frenchman's Pill. At the end of the farmhouse wall, mm into the field through the gate and bear left, descending a steep, woody hill. Turn right at the fork at the foot of this hill, which brings you to the head of Frenchman's Creek. Bear right, along the creekside. Turn right at the oak tree just beyond the plank bridge, and climb the wooden steps until the path levels out. Take a break and soak up the scenery.
3. Penarvon Cove
Continue along the field and cross a wooden stile. Turn right up a track, then right at the T-junction. Follow the edge of the field and turn left down a lane signposted (just after the cattle grid) Penarvon Cove. Stay on the main path, passing through a gate to reach the cove. Cross the top of the beach, then follow the track as it leads up through trees.
4. The Shipwrigtit's Arms
Cross the road and go through agate, following the path behind the cottages. Turn left at the end of the row, down a track. and bearright past the Shipwiight's Arms, or take a break here (enjoy a pint, something to eat, and views across the estuary). At low tide, wading birds come to feed on the mud flats, here.
• Return to the car park Follow the lane through the village, cross the footbridge and turn left to return to the Helford car park.
ROUTE 2 - HELL'S MOUTH ON THE SOUTH WEST COAST PATH
The north coast is incredibly wild and has been witness to many shipwrecks in the past. Later, from atop the slate headland of Godrevy Point, you will get some idea of just how wild it can be from the view of the lighthouse and coastline there.
Zero your car's trip meter and turn right out of River Valley Country Park. Turn right at 2.3 miles ontothe A394. Take the fourth exit at the roundabout (2.1 miles) towards St Ives on the A30. At 5.8 miles, take the second exit at the roundabout, on the B3301 for Hayle. Entering Hayle, turn left at the traffic island (signposted Cambourne). At 10 miles, turn left at the traffic island towards Portreath, on the B3301. Turn left into the Godrevy Towans National Trust car park (12.5 miles). There is a café and coffee shop here, too.
1. Godrevy Point
Turn left out of the car park. Walk up the road to the coast at St Ives Bay. Follow the clifftop road for about 800 yards (pass Godrevy Farm). On the opposite side of the bay you will be able to see the pretty town of St Ives. Bear left across the open turf to a stile. Follow the path around the hill to the very tip of Godrevy Point Godrevy Island with its lighthouse lies 400 yards or so offshore.
2. The highest point of the walk
Continue around the cliff top. Take the (unfenced) path along the cliffs to a kissing gate.
Take the track that rises over the downland of The Knavocks to the highestpointof this bleak headland. This is the highest point of our walk, and the view across St Ives Bay to the hills of Penwith is spectaculac looking north east, broken cliffs and sandy beaches stretch for 30 miles to Trevose Head. Continue through an area of gorse to two stiles. Cross a field to another stile and go left along a lane which turns into a narrow path. Follow the path as far as two granite gateposts.
3. Descent into Hell's Mouth
Turn left after the gateposts, and walk along the (unfenced) cliff tops, then follow the path as it heads inland. Continue over Hudder Down to descend to Hell's Mouth.
4. Hells' Mouth Café
Join the B3301 - Hell's Mouth Café, boarded up when we visited, is across the road. Turn right to the North Cliff NT car park.
• Return to the car park Descend into Red River Valley (you'll see St Ives Bay straight ahead). At the stone bridge turn right and walk back to the car park.
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Distance
Walk one: 2.5 miles.
Walk two: 4 miles
Time
Walk one: 2 hours.
Walk two: 2-4 hours
Start/finish
Both walks are suitable for the moderately fit.
Walk one: from Helford car park. Level ground most of theway but with some short, steep sections.
Walk two: from GodrevyTowans car park. Clifftop and open grassland but with some steep sections.
Refreshments
Shipwright'sArms, Helford
(walk one).
Café and Sand Sitters Hotel,
Godrevy car park (walk two).
Information
Hayle Tel 01736 754399
Penzance Tel 01736 362207
Tip
Sections of the path on ourwalk are along unfenced clifflop with the danger of a sheer drop below, so be sure to keep children well away from the edge. |
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