| Great Escapes - N Devon 2 |
North Devon's coastline is among the most scenic in Britain. Our 50-mile driving route follows a network of main roads and country lanes to explore the sheer cliffs and the wooded combes where the land meets the sea, as well as windswept, western Exmoor.
1. Ilfracombe
The start/finish for our North Devon driving route is Ilfracombe's Landmark Theatre. Take the A361 from Barnstaple for 12.5 miles. Entering Ilfracombe, at the traffic lights turn left onto Wilder Road. Follow the road to the right and in half a mile you'll reach the Landmark Theatre. From the east on the A399, enter Ilfracombe and drive along the High Street. Turn right at the traffic lights next to the Queens Hotel, then right again at the next set of lights onto Wilder Road, and the Landmark Theatre car park.
This seafront theatre looks like two cooling towers, and has a theatre, a pavilion and information centre.
The delightful seaside town of Ilfracombe has a sheltered, natural harbour and various smaller coves. Wander along the promenade or Torrs Park and marvel at the Victorian architecture, now largely seafront hotels, or pay a visit to the harbour where the cafes and pubs create a continental maritime atmosphere. It's also worth visiting the Tunnels beaches from May to September, so-called because you can access the beaches and bathing pools via a series of tunnels.
As we went to press, 'foot and mouth' had not yet affected plans for the 'Walking Festival', held
4 - 7 May. A number of guided and speciality walks are planned, taking in dramatic coastal hikes and Exmoor's rolling pastures.
For more information, call 0845 458 3630 .
2. Heddon Valley by lunchtime
Zero your car's trip meter, then turn right out of the Landmark Theatre car park onto Wilder Road. Turn left at the first set of lights, then turn left at the traffic lights opposite the Queen's Hotel following the signs for Combe Martin. Fork right at half a mile.
• Stop at the designated parking area (2.1 miles) just before the entrance to Ilfracombe Golf Club for soaring views of the Bristol Channel.
Continue the same route and, at 3.2 miles, pass Watermouth Castle on your right (see our Theme Parks tour p80).
• At 5.2 miles, turn left into Combe Martin's Parade car park and enjoy a walk on Newberry Beach. Combe Martin museum overlooks the beach (see our Museums tour p82). At 7.3 miles pass the Wildlife Dinosaur Park on your right (see p80). At 8.6 miles, turn left, signposted Hunter's Inn and Trentishoe*. At 9.8 miles, follow the road as it bends to the right.
• At 10.6 miles you're entering the Holdstone National Trust area, signifying the start of Exmoor National Park. Pass the Holdstone car park on the left, and at 11.7 miles bear right for the descent to Hunter's Inn, arriving at 12.9 miles.
Hunter's Inn, at Heddon Valley, is a charming pub set in mature woodland and is the ideal venue for a lunch break. From here, you can follow a path to Heddon's Mouth where the river meets the sea, or climb to Heddon's Mouth Cleave. Otherwise there's plenty to occupy you in the Hunter's Inn's own splendid gardens, where ducks will take a great interest in your pub lunch.
3. Valley of the rocks
Turn left at Hunter's Inn and climb the 1-in-4 hill towards Martinhoe. At 13.7 miles, turn left towards Woody Bay. Pass Martinhoe church and at 14.6 miles branch left and descend. Follow the signs for Lynton via the toll road, past the Woody Bay Hotel and continue along the winding, wooded combes of the coastal road. At 15.3 miles you reach the toll road. Enter the Lee Valley estate, which takes you past the Lee Abbey Christian Community. At 16.3 miles, at the roundabout, go straight on through the Valley of the Rocks*, or use the car park on the left.
In the Valley of the Rocks huge rock outcrops protrude from the grassy valley, grazed by dozens of wild goats. Paths lead up to the summit of these formations and allow magnificent views of the surrounding bays.
Note: as we went to press, there was a ban on the use of footpaths, bridleways and open moorland across Exmoor. Walkers and cyclists should keep to tarmac roads.
4. Lynton and Lynmouth
From the Valley of the Rocks, enter Lynton at 17miles. At 17.2miles pass Lynton's town hall/tourist
information office, and at 17.4miles turn right into the car park.
The twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth are often referred to as 'England's little Switzerland' and boast some of Devon's most stunning coastal scenery. Lynton sits atop a 600ft cliff. A walk back up the hill from the car park brings you to the town hall, an impressive building, but the centrepiece of the town is the 1890-built water-powered cliff railway. It has two cars, one to ascend and the other to descend the 600ft cliff to Lynmouth on the other side.
• Leaving the car park, turn right and at 18 miles turn left onto the B3234 Lynmouth Hill a steep, 1-in-4 descent. Park at the car park where this road meets the A39.
Lynmouth is one of the most picturesque villages in Devon, nestled around a tiny harbour flanked by wooded hills. Thatched cottages, dating back hundreds of years, line the harbour from where you can watch surfers or just sit and enjoy a cream tea.
5. Watersmeet
Take the A39 towards Barnstaple. At 19.2 miles there's a parking area on the right and a path to Watersmeet.
Watersmeet is a famous beauty spot, in the care of the National Trust, where the East Lyn River meets Hoaroak Water. A series of scenic waterfalls cascades down a ravine with rock pools sometimes populated by salmon. This is a great place for a picnic, and for walkers there are footpaths branching off in all directions (unfortunately closed as we went to press).
Return journey
• At 19.8 miles, turn left to Simonsbath on the B223. The route heads across rolling Exmoor pastures where wild ponies roam the wide-open moorland. There are plenty of parking points along the way.
• At 26.8 miles turn sharp right, towards Blackmoor Gate on the B3358. At 37.3 miles turn right,
signposted Blackmoor Gate, on the A399. Turn left on the A3123 towards Woolacombe and at 43.4 miles go straight on at the junction with the B3230.
• At 45.2 miles, turn right at the roundabout to Ilfracombe on the A361. At 52.6 miles, turn left at the lights onto Wilder road and follow it round to the right, returning to the Landmark Theatre.
*Although cars and caravans have been designated low risk carriers of 'foot and mouth', disinfectant mats have been placed at selected roads across moorland areas. As we went to press the public was still able to use the road network for access into and through the Park but look out for signs which suggest alternative routes. For the latest information call the Exmoor National Park Authority helpline on 01398 322322. For our route this may involve staying on the A399 towards Blackmoor Gate rather than turning left for Hunter's Inn and Trentishoe. At Blackmoor Gate, turn left on the A39 for Lynton. Reach Hunter's Inn by turning left at Martinhoe Cross for Woody Bay, then return to the A39 and continue to Lynton. After visiting Lynton, rather than heading across moorland to Simonsbath, you may be directed back along the A39 towards Blackmoor – a nevertheless picturesque and enjoyable Exmoor drive. |
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Distance 53 miles.
Time 6 hours.
Start/finish Landmark Theatre, Wilder Street, Ilfracombe.
Suitable for All the family.
REFRESHMENTS
• Hunter's Inn, Heddon's Valley, Nr Parracombe EX31 4PY. Tel 01598 763230
• Le Bistro, 7 Watersmeet Road, Lynmouth, EX35 6EP. Tel 01598 753302
• The Rising Sun Hotel, Harbourside, Lynmouth, EX35 6EQ. Tel 01598 753223
• The River Restaurant, Shelley's Hotel, Lynmouth. Tel 01598 753219
• The Black Venus Inn, Challacombe, nr Barnstaple, Devon, tel 01595 763251.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Combe Martin tel 01271 883319; Ilfracombe tel 01271 863001; Lynton tel 01598 752225.
ATTRACTIONS
Landmark Theatre, Ilfracombe. Tel 01271 324242
• Lundy Island Boat Trips, Ilfracombe.
Tel 01271 863771
• Ilfracombe Museum and Brass Rubbing Centre. Tel 01271 863541
• Combe Martin Motorcycle Collection. Tel 1271 882486
• Lynton and Lynmouth cliff railway. Tel 01598 753486.
TIP
Peak traffic periods on roads in Devon is 11am - 3pm. Set off early and you'll beat the worst of it. Try to avoid rush-hour traffic in Barnstaple and Bideford.
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