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Great Escapes: Dumfries & Galloway 1
Castles

Dumfries and Galloway has a castle to suit every taste. Close to the English border as well as a stone’s throw from The Isle of Man and Ireland, the county has pursued defence as a way of life. Whether visiting the island impregnability of Threave or the more modest Drumcoltran Tower, you are always aware of past dangers lurking outside the castles’ upright walls. Changing fashions also find expression in the castles’ diverse architecture. Caerlaverock’s huge thirteenth century walls give way to Drumlanrig’s aesthetic, seventeenth century splendour. So whether you want romantic ruins or an artist’s paradise, Dumfries and Galloway is the natural historical place to go.

1 MacLellan Castle:
Built by the Provost of Kirkcudbrightshire, Thomas MacLellan of Bombie in the late sixteenth century, MacLellan’s castle was designed as a comfortable, fortified residence. Look out for the ill placed gun holes on the upper floors which, thankfully for the MacLellans, were never needed.
The castle is situated in the middle of Kirkcudbright and is complete except for the roof. This was stripped off in 1742 as the MacLellans failed to match their aspirations to their pocket.
An interesting architectural quirk is the ‘The Laird’s Lug” behind the fireplace in the main hall. This was used to spy on assembled guests in an age where treachery was common. Whether it was any use with a roaring fire in the hearth is open to debate.
Life-size models of servants and food in the spacious bottom floor kitchen give an insight into castle life. Younger visitors will also enjoy the reconstruction with its plastic fish and nuclear green fire.

2 Threave Castle
One of the most inaccessible and exciting castles in Scotland. Directed down a single lane track to Kelton Mains farm, you then have a 3/4 mile ramble through rolling green scenery down to the banks of the River Dee.
The high point of the trip must surely be the subsequent short boat ride over the river. Summon the ferryman by ringing the brass bell and then sit back and relax, as Threave’s grim façade rises tall in front of you.
The Castle was the home of one of Southern Scotland’s most over-mighty and notorious families, ‘The Black Douglas’s. The castle’s founder, Archibald ‘The Grim’, seems to have left something of his forbidding nature in the stark architecture of the castle. The artillery wall was one of the first of its kind and helped keep James II at bay for two months, before the castle suddenly surrendered, perhaps through bribery.
The castle is only open in the summer months because in winter the hydro-electric plant upstream causes the river to rise to an unsafe level. Much like in the old days when the castle’s island position was one of its greatest strengths.

3 Caerlaverock Castle
Southern Scotland’s King of the Castles. A red specked edifice with a bona fida moat, two circular towers and one ‘double tower’ through which you enter. Caerlaverock is everyone’s idea of what a proper castle should look like. Located close to the English Border, the castle has passed from English to Scottish allegiance like a yo-yo over its six hundred year history. It has always remained however, in the diplomatic hands of the Maxwell family who still own the castle today.
If thirteenth century remains aren’t your cup of tea, then the Nithsdale Lodging provides a Renaissance feast. Best appreciated from the inner court, the Lodging still contains something of the symmetry and grandeur for which it was admired in the seventeenth century. Look out for the tymphana above the windows, which contain both heraldic devices and mythological scenes.
For a great view of the castle head around the edge of the moat to face Murdoch’s tower. To the tower’s left stretches a strong, unbroken wall but to the right you can see straight through the inner court to the Nithsdale Lodging.

4 Cardoness Castle
Located at the crossroads of Scotland, England, Ireland and The Isle of Man, Cardoness Castle has played an enthusiastic part in both regional and international politics. There is a fine potted history in the visitor centre and the staff are happy to help with more in depth questions. Look out for the dreadful “Cutlar McCulloch”. A notorious pirate, he used to menace Man from the sea-ward facing Cardoness and gave rise to the proverb:

“God keep the good corn, the sheep and the bullock, From Satan, from sin, and from Cutalr McCulloch.”

When just inside the castle look up. Directly above you is an opening in the ceiling called a “murder hole”, because it could be used to drop nasty things on unwelcome ‘guests’.
Cardoness, situated on a natural promontory overlooking The Fleet estuary, is also one of the few ruined Scottish castles to have a top floor viewing platform. Panoramic views more than reward a visitor for the climb. The castle is easy to find as it is visible from the A75, northwest of Kirkcudbright.

5 Drumcoltran Tower
A hidden jewel located down a country track off the A75 and in the middle of a working farm. If you want to appreciate history in peace and quiet then this is the castle for you: there are no tourist guides or information brochures, just cows and sheep! Don’t be afraid to push open the castle’s black front door, it’s unmarked but open.
The castle, built in the 1570s, was owned by the powerful Maxwell family who also owned Caerlaverock. Today, surrounded by animals and farm buildings, it closely echoes the historical scene. Tower houses such as Drumcoltran were invariably farmhouses.
The castle is also a great choice on a rainy day. It’s one of the few ‘ruins’ to have a roof. Also unusual, is that you can go up onto the roof by means of a small black door at the top of the castle. Stand on the battlements and appreciate the beautiful Dumfries and Galloway countryside.

6 Drumlanrig Castle:
More of a stately home than a castle, Drumlanrig was built in the seventeenth century over the remains of a previous Douglas family stronghold.
It is very much a family home, owned by the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensbury, and family photos exist alongside masterly paintings.
Perhaps one of the most impressive areas is The Staircase Hall. This houses Leonardo da Vinci’s “Madonna with Yarnwinder”, Holbein’s “Sir Nicholas Carew” and Rembrandt’s “Old Woman Reading”. If your interest leans to modern painting visit the Morning Room. John Merton’s portrait of the present Duchess of Buccleuch and Queensbury, is the only painting this century to receive a Royal Academy ‘A’ Award.
Tour guides are stationed in major rooms to provide information or answer queries. A query to a friend of ‘what’s that’ often elicits a voice from behind your shoulder that fills in the blanks.
The house is also set in fabulous gardens and woodland, complete with red squirrels, unusual trees and an adventure playground. It will be almost impossible to tear younger visitors away from the ‘death slide’. A bicycle museum on site also reconstructs MacMillan’s ‘velopede’, the world’s first ever pedal bike. MacMillan was an employee at the castle.

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CONTACTS:
Tourist info
Dumfries and Galloway Tourist Board, 64 Whitesands Dumfries, DG1 2RS Tel 01387 253862
E-mail Click here to email
Website Click Here

Restaurants
The Clachan Inn 10 Main Street, St John’s Town of Dalry, Tel 01644 430241
Designs Gallery
179 King Street, Castle Douglas Tel 01556 504552
Selkirk Arms
High Street, Kirkcudbright Tel 01557 330209

Attractions
MacLellan’s Castle, Kirkcudbright Tel 01557 331856
Threave Castle, near Castle Douglas Tel 07711 223 101 or 01387 770244
Caerlaverock Castle, South of Dumfries, near Shearington Tel 01387 770244
Cardoness Castle, SW of Gatehouse of Fleet Tel 01557 814427
Drumcoltran Tower, near Kirkcudbright (not staffed - Tel 0131668 8600)
Drumlanrig Castle, near Thornhill Tel 01848 330248
All under the care of Historic Scotland apart from Drumlanrig Tel 0131668 8600 Website Click Here
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