| Great escapes: Lake District 2 |
| Unusual Eskdale |
| Some exciting methods of transport provide the theme for this route, which includes the steepest hill in Britain and a ferry crossing |
Our previous driving route (p57) explored the Bassenthwaite and Borrowdale region and the Western Lakes. Our second takes us south to Eskdale and Wasdale and the Central Lakes of the Kendal and Windermere Estuary, which offer some equally delightful and exhilarating drives including the steepest road in England. We also visited a couple of the area's less-known museums
which turned out to be fascinating gems among the Lake District's many attractions.
1. Hardknott Pass
From Skelwith Fold Caravan Park, zero your car's trip meter and turn left onto the B5286. Cross the hump-backed bridge and turn left onto the A593 at 1.2 miles. At 3.3 miles, turn right at the signpost for Little Langdale and Wrynose. Bear left at the fork in road at 5.3 miles and follow the signs for Wrynose and Bootle. Turn right at 9.1 miles for Eskdale via the Hardknott Pass.
Hardknott Pass is a steep gradient, rising at a rate of 1 in 2.5
in places, which climbs via a series of sharp hairpin bends to a height of 393 metres. The area can get busy at peak periods, but also avoid making the trip if road conditions are icy. Indeed, even when the road was merely rain-slicked, the wheels of our Toyota Avensis scrabbled for purchase.
At the western end of the Hardknott Pass lie the remains
of a Roman Fort, known in Roman times as Mediobogdum. This site
– now managed by English Heritage – overlooks the beautiful valley of Eskdale, with all its craggy ridges, lush woodlands and broad, sweeping pastures.
2. The La'al Ratty line
At 14 miles, in the little town of Boot, look out for the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway on your right.
Be sure to stop at Eskdale (Dalegarth) station for a ride on the steam engine of the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway. It's a seven-mile, narrow-gauge railway line which meanders through the fells down to the coastal village of Ravenglass. Nicknamed La'al Ratty, the line opened in 1875 for transporting iron ore, granite and passengers until the quarries closed in 1953.
The journey to Ravenglass takes 40 minutes and passes through some superb, scenic fells, and with a choice of fully open, semi-open or closed carriages, the railway can run throughout the year. A return ticket from Eskdale (Dalegarth) Station to Ravenglass costs £7 for adults, £3.50 for children aged 5-15 years (discounts include one half-price adult when accompanying two or more children on the railway). The free museum at Ravenglass celebrates the
line's history.
Continue for about a mile, then at 15.5 miles turn left towards Ulswater and Broughton. This road takes you in a south-easterly direction back across beautiful, rolling fells. At 21.6 miles turn right, following the signpost for Broughton, then at 25.2 miles turn left at the signpost for Barrow, the Lancaster A595 and Broughton.
3. Lunch stop
If you fancy some lunch make a small detour to nearby Broughton-in-Furness, an impressive looking little town with an attractive market square.
The Blacksmith's Arms in Broughton-in-Furness, just off the A593, is a riot of flowers in summer, thanks to its many hanging baskets. There is a selection of real ales on tap here, and bar food is served between 12-2pm and 6-9pm.
4. Laurel and Hardy time
Leave Broughton-in-Furness and continue along the previous route.
At 32.3 miles turn off onto the A590 for Ulverston, arriving in the town centre at 35.4 miles. Here, turn right onto the B528 then left and first right for
Upper Brook Street and the Laurel and Hardy Museum.
Ulverston's most famous son is Stan Laurel, who was born here in 1890. Stan, was one half of the legendary comic duo, and there's a museum here devoted to Laurel and Hardy memorabilia that is well worth a browse. Letters, photos and furniture, as well as endless trinkets and trivia, are all lovingly collated and displayed. A small
cinema features clips from some of the duo's 105 films, and shows
documentaries on their lives. The Museum is open every day from February to December and costs £2 for adults, £1 for children and OAPs, and £4 for a family (two adults plus three children).
5. Historic cars and Holker Hall
Return along the A590, then at 41.1 miles turn right onto the B5278. At 45.3 miles turn right again, following the signposts for Holker Hall and the Lakeland Motor Museum.
Family residence of Lord and Lady Cavendish, Holker Hall is Cumbria's premier stately home.
It displays grand architecture and furnishings but retains a relaxed, lived-in feel thanks to the absence of barriers between the public and the rooms. Outside, the 25 acres of
gardens are justly famous.
Holker Hall is also home to the Lakeland Motor Museum, which presents a range of historic cars from past to present. The exhibition featuring the Campbells, Sir Malcolm and Donald, both
adventurers on land and water, is perhaps the most interesting. Full-size replicas of their cars and boats are on display, and there is a video of the moment on Coniston Water when Donald's Bluebird crashed as he attempted to break the world water speed record 34 years ago.
When we visited, divers were
salvaging the wreck from the bottom of Coniston Water and were thought to have finally found Campbell's body. Some of the
45-year-old's clothes, and his teddy bear mascot, were recovered at the time of the accident.
Holker Hall is open every day except Saturday from 1 April to
31 October 2001. Admission varies according to how much you wish to see: for adults, an all-inclusive Top Ticket is £7.75, the House and Gardens alone is £6.50, as is the Lakeland Motor Museum and Gardens, while Gardens and Grounds alone is £3.65. Children go for £2.95-£4.50.
6. Crossing the water
Return, at 50 miles, to the A590 and head north for Windermere. Follow the A592 for two miles until you come to the Ferry House (sign at 57.8 miles).
A car ferry crosses Windermere between Ferry House, just to the south of Bowness, and Ferry Nab. This saves a long drive around the lake via the often-congested towns of Windermere and Ambleside. There is sometimes a queue, particularly during peak season, but it makes a pleasant alternative mode of transport. The cost of the crossing is £2 (the ferry takes caravans).
• Return to your campsite. After the crossing follow the B5285 to the northern tip of Esthwaite Water, and return to Skelwith Fold via the B5286 (64 miles).
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Distance 64 miles
Time 8 hours
Start/finish Skelwith Fold
Caravan Park
Suitable for All the family
Refreshments
The Blacksmith's Arms
Tel 01229 716824
Attractions
Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway
Tel 01229 717171
Laurel and Hardy Museum, Ulverston
Tel 01229 582282
Holker Hall and the
Lakeland Motor Museum
Tel 01539 558328
Information
Hawkshead
Tel 015394 36525
Broughton-in-Furness
Tel 01229 894784
Ulverston
Tel 01229 587120
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