| Potted prehistory |
| Leave no stone unturned on this chronological caper which skips from the neolithic period through to the Bronze and Iron ages ... |
Some 5000 years ago, Orkney was home to a rich and powerful civilisation, as can be seen in the tombs and standing stones left behind. These were laborious constructions whose purpose was either spiritual or ritual. In addition to excavations from the Iron Age, some dwellings survived the neolithic and Bronze ages. Those interested in ancient history will find it hard to resist trying to piece together the cryptic clues left behind in the archaeological remains of Orkney. Our day trip encompasses the best the islands have to offer.
1. Stone-age Skara Brae
At the end of the approach road to the Point of Ness caravan site (see p85), zero your car's trip meter. Turn left to Guardhouse Park. At 0.6 miles, turn right at the mini roundabout (Back Rd). At 1.3miles, turn left at the junction (A965), then left onto the A967 at 2.1 miles, signposted Skara Brae and Sandwick. At 5.2 miles, by a sharp right-hand bend, turn left onto the B9056. At 7.1 miles, continue on the B9056 - don't take the road to Ring of Brogar on the right. At 8.1 miles turn left into the Skara Brae approach road.
Of all the sites on Orkney, the village of Skara Brae is best-known as it provides such an incredible insight into how Stone Age people - of a similar era and culture as the builders of Stonehenge - lived their daily existence.
Skara Brae has a brand new visitor centre (with a pleasant café) which offers a film and various computer animations describing, for example, the development of the landscape during the village's 600-year history. Mind you, the
well-preserved remains tell the story best.
2. Ring of Brodgar - still standing
Turn right out of the Skara Brae approach road and travel 8.7 miles on the B9056. At 9.8 miles, turn left onto the B9055, signposted Ring of Brodgar. At 11 miles, turn right at the T junction onto the A967. Just 20 yds later, turn left to rejoin the B9055. At 14 miles, turn left into the car park.
This standing stone circle (pictured, right) is reminiscent of Stonehenge, but by no means as impressive. The setting, however, is breath-taking. There's no dual carriageway buzzing past (as at the Stonehenge site) and you are able to walk right up to the stones. The sense of mystery and power here is palpable.
3. The Stones of Stenness
Leave the Ring of Brodgar car park (14.1 miles) and turn left onto the B9055. At 15.1 miles pull off, left, into the lay-by for the Standing Stones of Stenness.
This stone circle was most likely built by the same people who constructed the Ring of Brodgar, and it is in an equally striking setting. It won't occupy much of your time but demonstrates one of the advantages of touring Orkney's many historic sites: in just one day you can gain a broad sense of the island's ancient history.
4. A top tomb at Maes Howe
Turn left out of the lay-by (at 15.1 miles) continuing in the same direction as when you arrived, along the B9055. At 15.5 miles turn left at the junction, onto the A965 to Kirkwall. At 16.1 miles turn right into car park.
This is the first of two Neolithic tombs on this tour and was built by the same group of people who were responsible for Skara Brae. They also produced 'grooved-ware' pottery, so-called because of its distinctive decoration
This is the finest, chambered tomb in Europe and its construction is marvellous. Massive, flat stones have been arranged in a corballed pattern (staggered, to create a curve) to produce a dome. You can also discover what marauding Norsemen wrote in runes when they broke open the tomb between the ninth and 12th centuries AD.
5. Mine Howe - upside down
Leave Maes Howe at 16.1 miles and turn right on the A965 towards Kirkwall, following it until you reach a roundabout (26.1 miles). Turn right down Junction Rd, then take a left at the mini roundabout at 26.3 miles, down Union St. At 26.6 miles turn right at the T junction, along the A960 towards the airport. At 31.5 miles, turn left down an unclassified road, which has a small sign for Mine Howe. At 31.9 miles, turn right into the car park.
Mine Howe is an Iron Age site but no less mysterious despite its relative proximity in time. When it was uncovered in 1946 the excavators were able to find traces of mysterious happenings around the site, but the site was only fully exposed when local farmer Douglas Paterson discovered the entrance. The Howe is a unique structure (pictured, above). It is a two-storey tower, but one which starts at ground level and goes down, not up.
6. Old Fossils on Orkney
Leave the car park. At 32.2 miles rejoin the A960, towards Deerness. At 33.5 miles turn right down the B9052 towards St Marys, then at 37.1 miles turn left at the junction, onto the A961, towards St Margarets Hope. You will cross three causeways, from East Mainland to Lamb Holm, then to Glimps Holm and finally to Burray. At 40.3 miles turn left into the Orkney Fossil and Vintage Centre.
The Centre is a small, lovingly laid out museum. It is one Orcadian's 'private' collection, though as far as we can tell it has always been available for public viewing. The exhibits range from local fossils to glow-in-the-dark minerals, to a case full of Zippo lighters. Upstairs is a wonderful reading room with everything from pictures of the German fleet scuttled at Scapa Flow to someone's scrapbooks of the Queen through the 1950s.
7. Tombe of Eagles
Leave Orkney Fossil and Vintage Centre, turning left (at 40.5 miles) onto the A961 towards, St Margarets Hope, crossing the last causeway to South Ronaldsay, and at 50.7 miles turn left down the B9041 towards Cleat. At 51.5 miles turn right down a farm track bearing a small, private sign to Tomb of Eagles. Park in the car park.
Another Neolithic group (apart from the 'grooved-ware' people mentioned above) which archaeologists have attempted to classify is the one which produced 'Unstan ware' - shallow, round-bottomed dishes. The Tomb of Eagles is part of their legacy. Farmer Ronnie Simison excavated the site himself and will guide you through part of your tour.
• Return to the campsite: leave the Tomb of Eagles car park at 52.3 miles and head back down the unclassified farm track at 52.5 miles. At 53.1 miles turn left onto the B9041, then at 53.8 miles turn right onto the A961 to Kirkwall. You will pass Chad Summit, which is worth a look for the views of Hoy and the north coast of Scotland. Continue down the A961 (including a nearly right-angled left bend as you enter Kirkwall) until 74.5 miles, then turn left at the mini roundabout down the Pickaquoy road. At 75.2 miles turn left onto the A965, back towards Stromness and the caravan site.
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Distance 91 miles
Time nine hours
Start/finish Point of Ness Caravan and Camping Site (see p85)
Suitable for All the family. Those with back problems beware, as both tombs have a low entrance. Boots are needed at most sites on wet days.
Refreshments
Skara Brae Visitor Centre
Tel 07855 841815
Torminston Restaurant, Maes Howe
Tel 01856 761562
Orkney Fossil & Vintage Centre
Tel 01856 731255
Quoyburray Inn
Tel 01856 861255
Attractions
Skara Brae
Tel 01856 841815
Maes Howe
Tel 01856 761606
Mine Howe
Tel 01856 861234
Orkney Fossil & Vintage Centre
Tel 01856 8731255
Tombe of Eagles
Tel 01856 831339
Information
Stromness
Tel 01856 850716
Kirkwell
Tel 01856 872856
Tip
You can buy a saver ticket from either of the 'Historic Scotland' properties (Skara Brae, Maes Howe) which offers entry to several sites throughout Orkney.
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