| Island a-Hoy |
| Take the ferry across to the multi-faceted island of Hoy and enjoy attractions ranging from a geological marvel to a Nissen hut chapel |
In one day you can witness not only the beauty of Hoy island's landscape but also the havoc wrought upon its shores during WWII - there's even a glimpse of the humanity which can shine through during even the worst conflicts. Yet it's hard to imagine a less martial setting than the island of Hoy in spite of its surviving military buildings and the fact that this was once home to Lyness Naval base. During the first part of our day you'll marvel at Hoy's desolate beauty, unimpeded by more than a handful of visitors.
This is the largest of Orkney's islands after its 'mainland' and you could easily spend two days here. You can pitch your van at Rackwick, with its stunning sea views - there are no facilities, however, except for the public toilets.
• Book your ferry in advance, as only 10 car spaces are available. All the attractions mentioned here should be achievable in the time between the ferry's arrival and departure.
1. Doubled up at Dwarfie
Zero your car's trip meter at the end of the approach road to Ness Point Caravan site. Turn left down Guardhouse Park and then right at the mini roundabout (0.6 miles), down Back Rd. At 1.1 miles turn left into North End Rd, then left onto the A965. At four miles, turn right to Orphir on the A964. At 9.5 miles turn right into the ferry terminal. The trip to Hoy takes just over half an hour. Take the B9048 when you disembark. At 10.5 miles turn right at the T junction onto the B9047. At 19 miles turn left down an unclassified road, signposted Rackwick. At 20.2 miles, use the car park on the right (its blue 'P' sign has faded) for the Dwarfie Stane.
Dwarfie Stane is a rock-cut tomb unique in Britain, and is a 'must-see' for all visitors to the area. Whoever carved it must have held much affection for whoever was being buried as it must have taken a fearful amount of time to hack out the stone. You can get inside the tomb if you want to, but you will have to bend your back as the roof is quite small. Still, this ancient monument seems all the more mysterious in its romantic setting.
2. Old man ahoy!
Leave the car park and continue along the unclassified road then, at 23.5 miles, turn left into the car park for the Old Man of Hoy.
In a similar fashion to the Needles off the Isle of Wight, this amazing rock construction was formed by the sea. It's a 450ft sea stack which stands up out of the sea like a rickety chimney. In season, you'll see seagulls and puffins to-ing and fro-ing from the 'Old Man' to the cliffs. It's a six-mile round trip to walk up there, with occasionally steep slopes, but well worth it.
3. Betty Corrigall's Grave
Return down the unclassified road, then at 28 miles turn right onto the B9047. At 31.5 miles turn into the lay-by (right) for Betty Corrigall's grave.
The story told by this isolated spot is unbearably tragic. Betty Corrigall was a young girl from Lyness who fell in love with a visiting sailor, who deserted her, after which she found she was pregnant. She committed suicide by hanging herself. Her burial was forbidden on church grounds due to the manner of her death, so the body was laid to rest in a peat bog outside the parish boundary.
4. Scapa Flow
Continue on the B9047, and turn left (13.4 miles) onto the B9048 for Lyness. At 13.9 miles, turn into the car park for the Visitor Centre.
• At this point, if you have more than an hour and a half until your return ferry sailing you can visit the Martello tower, on South Walls at the south-east corner of Hoy, built during the time of the Napoleonic wars: follow the B9047 until you come to the left turn for the tower. If you reach a T junction, you've gone too far.
The fascinating museum at Scapa Flow Visitor Centre is a fine memorial to those who sailed the seas during World Wars I and II. There are huge quantities of photos and written archives, as well as maps, artefacts from wrecks and a chance to see the pumping station. The café here offers homemade cakes and hot food.
5. Are you receiving me? Over ...
After visiting Scapa Flow (or the optional trip to the Martello tower), return on the ferry to the 'mainland' and zero your car's trip meter. Turn right out of the ferry terminal, on the A964 to Kirkwall. At 10.1 miles turn left onto Junction Rd, then at 10.6 miles turn right into the car park next to the Wireless Museum.
This delightful little museum follows the story of domestic radio in Orkney, from day one. There is also an additional focus on the history of wartime transmissions. In addition to plenty of lovely old radio sets (with Bakelite receivers much in in evidence) there are maps, charts, photographs and other memorabilia to see. There's even a classic, 1960s Bush UV 63.
6. The Churchill Barriers
Return the way you came, along Junction Rd, following it past Balfour Hospital until it becomes the A961. Continue and bear right (at 18.3 miles) onto the causeway, past the Italian Chapel and over another causeway. At 20.2 miles turn into the parking space before the third causeway.
These causeways linking the islands of Lamb Holm, Burray and South Ronaldsay to the mainland were constructed by Balfour Beatty, at Winston Churchill's behest, to further protect the naval activity at Scapa Flow. Nowadays they're of more use as link roads. Prior to Beatty's efforts a number of ailing vessels known as 'blockships' had been sunk to keep out intruders - you can still see these wrecks poking out of the water. They are identified and named on the information board in the parking area.
7. Chapel in a Nissen hut
Turn right out of the parking area and return the way you came, down the A961. At 21.6 miles turn right into the Italian Chapel car park.
The Italian Chapel, a serene place of worship, looks ornate from the front but further examination reveals its origins as a Nissen hut. The Italian PoWs who built it did so out of a desire to preserve some of the good things in life, despite the privations of war. The chapel still holds regular services, with occasional visits from its builders and their kin, whose friendship with the Orkney people has long outlived the enmity of war.
• Return to the campsite Continue on the A961 to Kirkwall. At 29.8 miles turn left at the mini roundabout into Pickaquoy Rd and continue back to Point of Ness campsite.
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Distance 83.3 miles driving plus seven miles walking
Time All day
Start/finish Point of Ness Caravan Site
Suitable for Competent walkers (but neither the very young nor the very old)
Refreshments
Pumphouse Cafe,
Scapa Flow Visitor Centre
Tel 01856 791300
RSPB Information Centre, Rackwick
Tel 01856 791313
(in season only)
Information
Stromness
Tel 01856 850716
Kirkwall
Tel 01856 872856
Tip
There's a unique boat service during the summer season, which takes you out to the Scapa Flow Visitor Centre at Lyness via some of the wrecks of the German WW1 fleet. An ROV (Remote Operated Vehicle) offers a diver's eye view of the wrecks, through monitors situated around the boat.
• Contact Roving Eye Enterprises
(tel 01856 811360)
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