| Island hopping |
| Three of the more easily accessible isles in the Orkneys group can be toured in a day, but it's tempting to spend more time on each |
Orkney is made up of 30 islands. Half of these are easy to reach and inhabited. Depending on your mood, you may want to use today's tour as the basis for a more leisurely visit to the three islands we covered in just one day. But if, like us, you want to see as much as you can in a short time, then a tour of all three can be achieved, but you'll need to plan it and ensure you eat a hearty breakfast.
Zero your car's trip meter at the end of the approach road to Point of Ness Caravan Site (see p85). Turn left onto Guardhouse Park then right onto Back Rd at the mini roundabout. At 1.1 miles turn left on North End Rd. At 1.3 miles turn left (A965). At 9.3 miles turn left to Tingwall Jetty (A966). At 15.1 miles turn right and use the car park.
• We bought a return ticket and caught the 8:20am ferry to Wyre. A single ticket took us from from Wyre to Rousay and from Rousay to Egilsay. Ferry services to Egilsay should be requested by phoning Orkney ferries.
1. Wyre
The first island stop is a short one - just over half an hour - but as the
ferryman told us: "that's all you'll need". There's only one road on Wyre, follow it until you see a small community hall on your right - it's the island's Heritage Centre, which provides a wonderfully personal insight in to everyday life in an island community. There's a gate to the right of the building which leads down to St Mary's chapel and Cubbie Roo's castle, both of which are visible from the road.
1a. St Mary's Chapel
Cubbie Roo is a nickname for Kolbein Hruga, a Norwegian viking of considerable stature (both physically and in terms of reputation) who 'retired' to Wyre. His son, Bjarni, was the third bishop of St Magnus' cathedral in Kirkwall. It was either he or his father who founded this church, which is in excellent condition for its age.
1b. Cubbie Roo's castle
This is the oldest stone castle in Scotland, and dates from about 1150 AD. It's hard to imagine someone attacking a tiny island like Wyre but the fort withstood a siege when Cubbie's grandson hid here after committing murder in Caithness (on mainland Scotland). The building is mentioned in the Orkneyinga saga (see p99).
2. Rousay
Return to the ferry (ours left at 9:50am) which can be seen from the castle so there's little danger of missing it. We arrived at Rousay at 10:05am, with three hours in which to explore the island. You have three options. On foot, you can make it to either the Faraclett Head or Westness walks and back. Or, you can hire a bike at the pier (tel 01856 821398), which means you could take in the whole island, depending on how fit you are (there are some steep hills). Or you could just hire a taxi/tour bus (tel 01856 821234).
Rousay can match the Orkney 'mainland' for prehistoric sites but what we enjoyed most was the island's natural beauty, although the near-empty landscape tells a sad story of 'the clearances' of clansmen and farmers which took place long ago under unscrupulous landlords.
Basic caravanning facilities are available at the Trumland Farm hostel Tel 01856 821252.
2a. The Faraclett Head walk
From the ferry, head for the Trumland Orientation centre, which has details of the island's RSPB reserve, which includes two walking routes. For Faraclett Head, make your way up the B9065, then take a right onto the B9064 (it's not a busy road). About three miles further on, the road bears right just after the island school, then bears left again: take the first right, onto an unclassified road. Follow this for a mile until you see a small parking area, signposted 'Faraclett Head'. Walk up, taking a left turn up the hill just before a farm. Here, you should see the first of many posts
bearing a yellow hexagon - each within 200m of the other.
This route offers some truly stunning clifftop views. It's a short walk which is possible to finish in 45 minutes but it deserves a more leisurely pace. On your way, do watch out for Yetnasteen, the standing stone which, legend has it, wanders down to the loch
for a refreshing drink on New Year's day.
2b. The Westness walk
From the B9065, follow the B9064 to the left until you reach the parking space for the Westness Walk. Follow the path down to the sea, where you can visit Midhowe Broch and Cairn before you begin.
Dubbed the most important archaeological mile in Scotland, this walk covers a measure of pleasant coastline boasting a bevy of remains from across the ages. On the way back, if time allows, you could visit one or two neolithic tombs such as Blackhammer Cairn and Taversoe Tuick. (You will also pass the starting point for walks on the Trumland RSPB reserve).
3. Across to Egilsay
Our ferry for Egilsay set sail at 1:15pm, arriving 20 minutes later. This left us with three hours on the island, which could easily be taken up with walking or bird watching. However, if you haven't had time for a bite to eat on Rousay, Manse Beach is a great spot for a picnic. Or, if the weather turns nasty, there's the RSPB building adjacent to the pier (toilets are available).
3a. St Magnus Kirk - built by Vikings
Head out along the unclassified road from the pier. After about 500m, there is a path across a field signed to St Magnus Kirk.
This is a striking example of Viking church-building style and one of only two such remaining, with a near-intact, tall, round tower.
3b. The Corncrake Trail
Continue down the unclassified road, past the school on your left and through the gate (the cenotaph to St Magnus is just ahead, on your right). After this point the 'road' can get quite boggy in places but it is this wetland habitat that provides such excellent conditions for Egilsay's rare birdlife.
The RSPB centre houses useful material on what birds you can see and where, as well as a useful
pamphlet. Simply follow the track to Manse Beach and you will be heading along the 'Corncrake Trail' - the best place to spot these rare fowl and various other waders. Manse beach is a pleasant spot, whatever the weather.
3c. Waders at Loch of the Graand
If you have time (our ferry left at 4:55pm) head back towards the pier and take a left at the crossroads. As the road comes to an end, you will pass a farm on your left. Keep heading in the same direction and you will come across the Loch of the Graand.
The Loch is a fine place in which to spot wader birds, while the coastline just to the south is usually
well-populated with seals.
• Return to the campsite Continue along the unclassified road and turn left at the crossroads, to the pier. The return ferry takes just over one hour. On arrival at Tingwall turn left out of the ferry terminal onto the A966. At 22.3 miles, turn right onto the A965 to Stromness. At 30.3 miles turn right into North End Rd, then (at 30.5 miles) right into Back Rd. At 31 miles turn left at the mini roundabout into Guardhouse park then right, into Ness Point caravan site.
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Distance 31.6 miles driving;
11-17 miles walking or cycling
Time All day
Start/finish Point of Ness Caravan Site
Suitable for All the family (beware; those with pushchairs will struggle on Egilsay)
Refreshments
Pier Restaurant, Rousay
Tel 01856 821359
Tip
Don't make a lot of noise if you want to spot the seals sunbathing, as they are easily startled. |
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