| Arts and crafts |
| On this tour you get a taster of the artistry that has been inspired
by the bleak island paradise that is Orkney, both past and present |
Orkney has been home to more than its fair share of creative people over the years. In the past, it has attracted writers such as Edwin Muir and George Mackay Brown, in addition to various artistic
movements. These days, it is craftspeople who predominate. Today's tour takes in plenty of culture, linked with advice on where to buy the best Orcadian arts and crafts products.
1. Go and gawp at the Gloup
Zero your car's trip meter at the beginning of the approach road to Ness Point Caravan Park and turn left to Guardhouse Park. At 0.6 miles turn right at the mini roundabout, onto Back Rd, turning left at the T junction (1.1 miles) onto North End Rd. At 1.3 miles, turn left at the T junction onto the A965. At 15.8 miles, turn right into Pickaquoy Rd, then (at 16.3 miles) turn right at the mini roundabout onto Junction Rd. At 16.4 miles turn left up Union St, then right down Bignold Park Rd (16.7 miles). Continue past the airport (19.7 miles). At 27.9 miles continue in the same direction, onto an unclassified road. At 28.4 miles, bear left, following the sign to Mull Head nature reserve, bearing left again at 29 miles. Turn into the car park for Mull Head Nature Reserve.
Before creation comes inspiration and this naturally-occurring arch, The Gloup, certainly provides that. The constant battering of the sea over thousands of years formed a sea cave which then collapsed, leaving this impressive formation.
2. Custom-designed jewellery
Return down the unclassified road, then at 37.2 miles turn right down another unclassified road, signposted 'Craft Trail Jewellery'. Bear left at 37.8 miles, then right. At 39 miles turn left, following the unclassified road up to and around the back of the house. Park at Sheila Fleet Jewellery.
Even though the Sheila Fleet jewellery workshop is quite small, it's one of the larger ones in Orkney, with several craftspeople on the staff. You can watch the jewellery being made by looking through windows or, if you're really interested, they will guide you through the whole process. Custom designs are the norm, so you could watch your own ring being made.
3. Norwood Antiques museum
Return down the unclassified road, take a right turn at the T junction (39.4 miles) and then take a sharp right at 40.6 miles, passing Mine Howe on the left. Take a left turn at the next junction, onto the A960 towards Deerness. At 42.5 miles turn right onto the B9052, bearing right at 43.5 miles, then sharp left at the war memorial (45. 3 miles). Turn right at 45.9 miles, signposted 'Norwood Antiques' and follow this road around. Park outside the house, by the fountain.
A typically Orcadian museum, in that it is one man's personal collection, displayed within a lovely old house that's still lived in by his daughter-in-law, who will show you around the wonderfully random, but beautifully displayed collection. It costs £3 for adults and is open from 2-5pm and 6-8pm (times may change later this year).
4. Hoxa Tapestry Gallery
Turn right out of Norwood Antiques' approach road, onto the B9052 (46.2 miles), then turn left onto the A961, signposted St Margarets Hope, onto the first causeway. Cross all three causeways onto the island of South Ronaldsay, then turn right onto the B9043 to St Margarets Hope (also signposted 'Craft Trail'). Bear sharp left onto Back Rd (53.9 miles), then take a left onto the B9043 to Hoxa. Bear sharp left and then sharp right (56.6 miles). Take a left at the T junction onto an unclassified road (56.8 miles), then turn left into the car park.
Of all the crafts practiced on Orkney, the tapestry of Leila Thompson is undoubtedly the most labour-intensive and the most expressive.
5. Sands of Wright
Leave the car park and take a right turn onto the B9043 at 57.2 miles. Then turn left into the Sands of Wight car park at 57.9 miles.
This is a secluded natural beauty spot with opportunities to see some local wildlife or have a picnic. Birds you can expect to spot include various waders, Rock Doves and Skuas.
6. Hourston Blacksmiths Museum
Leave the Sands of Wright car park and bear sharp left at 58.8 miles, then park on the right at 59.9 miles for the Blacksmiths Museum.
More personal history, this time charting the work of the Hourstons, who have been South Ronaldsay blacksmiths throughout two centuries. When we visited, the curator told us about his childhood memories of haircuts administered on a rickety, three-legged stool in the workshop. On display here are paintings, sculpture and furniture, as well as many smaller items which can be purchased as gifts. An excellent place. The Blacksmiths Museum is open from 11:30am to 1:20pm and form 2pm until 4pm during the summer season.
7. Stéphane Jeager showroom
Leave the museum car park and turn right at the T junction (60 miles). Drive past the large ship's propeller and onto Back Rd (B9043).
• St Margarets Hope is a good place at which to stop for lunch. Here, there are a couple of inns with harbour views. Bear right at 60.1 miles, then turn left at the T junction (60.3 miles) onto the A961 signposted 'Kirkwall'. At 64 miles turn left onto an unclassified road signposted 'Littlequoy' and continue along this road, bearing left at the fork (64.9 miles), signposted 'Craft Trail'. At 65.6 miles, turn right through a gate, signposted 'Littlequoy'. Follow the dirt track, bearing left at 65.7 miles. Park by the farmhouse.
Located adjacent to the farm on which Stéphane Jeager and her husband George Rouse raise 400 sheep and 50 cashmere goats, this small showroom displays a variety of elegant garments varying from hats and scarves to handspun cashmere cardigans and sweaters. The hats looked so good that I bought one as a present for my sister-in-law.
8. Woodwick Gallery
Leave the car park and turn left out of the gate, then bear right at 66.7 miles and turn left at the T junction (67.7 miles) onto the A961 towards Kirkwall. At the end of the final causeway (71.2 miles) bear left on the A961. Bear sharp left (at 77.7 miles) onto Holm Branch Rd (A961), towards Kirkwall town centre. Turn left at the mini roundabout (78.6 miles) down Pickaquoy Rd then, at 79.2 miles, turn left at the T junction onto the A965 signposted 'Stromness'. At 85.6 miles, turn right onto the A966, signposted 'Tingwall Jetty'. At 92.5 miles, turn right into Woodwick Gallery car park.
A relative newcomer on the Orcadian crafts scene, this venue hosts two galleries showcasing a variety of less-established artists and craftsfolk, including postcards and greetings cards by painters and photographers. Paintings, sculptures and furniture are on show, together with smaller items which would make ideal gifts. Try the excellent cakes in the coffee shop, too.
9. Fursbeck Pottery
Tun right out of the car park and continue on the A966. Turn left onto the B9057 and bear left at 97.7 miles. Turn left at the T junction (100.4 miles), onto the B9086 towards Finstown. Turn right into Fursbeck Pottery car park at 103.3 miles.
Here, Andrew Appleby (who hails from Kent) produces kitchen-friendly terracotta-ware in historic styles, which you can buy.
• Return to the campsite Turn right out of the car park and continue on the A986. Turn right at 106 miles at the T junction onto the A965 to Stromness. Turn right at 112.5 miles into North End Rd, and right into Back Rd. Turn left at the mini roundabout to Guardhouse Park, then right to Ness Point Caravan site (113.9 miles).
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Distance 114 miles
Time Nine hours
Start/finish Point of Ness Caravan and Camping Site
Suitable for The whole family
Refreshments
Orkney Fossil & Vintage Cntr, Burray
Tel 01856 731 255
Quoybarray Inn, Tankerness
Tel 01856 861 255
Sands Motel, Burray
Tel 01856 731 298
Woodwick Gallery, Evie
Tel 01856 751 221
Tourist Information
Stromness
Tel 01856 850716
Kirkwall
Tel 01857 872856
Tip
Some of the islands' more commercially successful crafts shops have put together a 'Craft Trail', which points you to all parts of the mainland. Ask for details at the tourist information offices.
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