| Queen o' the Isles |
| Despite several millennia of human habitation, Westray island remains an unspoilt paradise - just to be there is an inspiration ... |
Today's tour, mainly on foot, focuses on the natural beauty of the island of Westray and its varied flora and fauna. Seasoned walkers with plenty of time may wish to spend the whole day on foot, but there is a local minibus service which meets most incoming ferries (tel 01857 677211) and can arrange island tours. Alternatively, you could take your car (in which case advance booking is advisable, even compulsory on certain crossings). Or, hire a bike from Bobby's Cycle Centre in Kirkwall (phone 01856 875777) before you catch the ferry. From Tuesday to Saturday, you can leave at 7:20am, which will alow you nine or 10 hours on the island. At the time of writing, return ferry charges were: foot passenger £10.50; car £11.80; caravan (up to 6m) £23.50.
1. West Westray Walk
The ferry terminal is visible from the Pickacquoy Caravan Park, where we stayed, barely 300 yards away.
On the ferry, zero your car's trip meter and turn right out of the harbour
onto the B9066. Follow it through open country until you reach a slow hairpin left turn onto the B9067
(6.5 miles). Continue on the B9067, bearing sharp right at nine miles.
Bear left at 9.6 miles then right at
9.9 miles. Park in front of the farm (at 10.5 miles). Walk 200 yards down the road until you reach the next farm and follow the dirt track to the left where a stile marks the start of the West Westray Walk.
Although it is only 5.75 miles long, this walk takes in some breathtaking views, and offers numerous varieties of bird and plant life. A short detour to the west at the start of your walk will take you to the Bay of Kirbist, where the blue-flowered Oysterplant and Scottish Lavage can be found. To the east, you will pass Skea Hill at the start of your walk and Fitty Hill after about an hour. Both are rich in maritime sedge-heath and are good places in which to spot the Scottish Primrose, which flowers from May to July. Even if you don't have time to search out the flora, this walk is a treat in itself.
2. Noup Head RSPB Reserve
Follow the coastal path until you reach Noup Head RSPB Reserve.
Keen birdwatchers could happily spend a day here. The rest of us can simply marvel at the swarms of seabirds which stream out from the cliffs. The most recent survey, in 1994, estimated 44,500 Guillemots, 1600 Razorbills, 100 Fulmars and 12,700 Kittiwakes. Just to the north, you will pass Noup Head Lighthouse, which dates from the turn of the last century. During this walk, you will also pass Gentleman's Cave (see below), but do not venture in without an experienced guide.
3. Noltland Castle
Take the unclassified road which heads east from Noup Lighthouse and follow it for about one and a half miles at which point it bears sharp right and then left, just before two miles. Turn right at the crossroads after three miles and Noltland Castle is about 600 yards ahead on your right.
Abandoned since 1760, this castle was built by Gilbert Balfour, Master of the Household of Mary, Queen of Scots. He was implicated in a couple of high-profile murders but once Mary's cause was lost, fled to join the Swedish army. There, too, he was caught plotting - to kill the Swedish king - for which he was executed. Legend has it that it is linked to Gentleman's Cave by an underground passage.
4. Lunch break at Pierowall Hotel
Continue west, along the unclassified road which bears sharp right after about 600 yards, then sharp left 200 yards later. After a further 400 yards you will come to a T junction with the B9066. Turn right at the T junction onto the B9066. The Pierowall Hotel is 200 yards away, on the right.
By now, you will have walked about 10 miles or possibly cycled about the same distance, so it's time to refuel. The second part of our day covers less distance but you'll need a decent feed to keep you going.
The Pierowall Hotel, which serves lunch from noon until 2pm, is by no means a grand establishment but it serves what are, for many, the finest fish and chips in the Orkney Islands.
We certainly wouldn't disagree - our haddock and chips (at £4.70) was excellent. The fish menu is extensive and there are another 15 different species of fish from which to choose, including squid, monkfish and Norwegian Red herring.
4. Westray Heritage Centre
After lunch, you can visit the Westray Heritage - a small building next door to the Pierowall Hotel.
This is an intimate, personal museum with limited opening hours which vary depending on the season - afternoon is a safe bet but check at the hotel for details.
Despite its small size and current population of around 500, Westray island has played a significant part in the history of Orkney, from prehistoric through to Viking times. The island is described extensively in the Orkneyinga saga (which is featured on pp99/100).
6. Loch and Bay of Swartmill
Continue south, out of Pierowall on the B9066, bearing sharp right after nearly half a mile. Continue for another 23/4miles and turn right down an unclassified road towards Loch of Swartmill, which you will see to the right of the road. For the Bay of Swartmill, continue down the road and bear sharp right after half a mile. The Bay is accessible a few hundred yards ahead, on the left-hand side of the road.
6a. Loch of Swartmill
Rich in trout, the loch is not only a fisherman's, but also a birdwatcher's paradise. There are many breeding pairs of wildfowl and waders, here, depending on the time of year, including Mute Swans and Little Grebes.
6b. Bay of Swartmill
The bay offers some great
opportunities for seal-spotting (both grey and common varieties) and if you really keep your eyes peeled, you may even catch sight of a porpoise or a whale.
• Return to the ferry Retrace your
steps and take a left back onto the B9066 road, continuing southwards for just over four miles until you reach the harbour.
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Distance 21.3 miles (of which 7.3 minimum are walking, from the start of the West Westray Walk to the Pierowall Hotel). Optional route to the airport: 3.1 miles each way.
Time All day
Start/finish The Pickaquoy Centre Caravan and Camping Park, Kirkwall.
Suitable for Outdoor types, not ideal for the very young or very old.
Refreshments
Pierowall Hotel
Tel 01857 677208
Cleaton House Hotel
Tel 01857 677508
Attractions
Flights from Kirkwall or Westray to Papa Westray
Tel 01856 872494/873457
Tourist Information
Kirkwall
Tel 01856 872856
Westray Tourist Association
Tel 01857 677404
Tip
If you are keen on arts and crafts, there's a Craft and Heritage Trail leaflet which offers details of
craftsfolk and where to find them, as well as a few historic sites. Contact Tourist Information. |
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