| Around town |
| Orkney's city and main town have more to offer than their size would indicate. Enjoy shopping, cafés, culture, and a fine cathedral |
It's not often that people look to island cultures for urban sophistication, yet Orkney's two main settlements of Stromness and Kirkwall have a depth that belies their size.
If you've followed these Great Escapes to the letter so far, you've done well as we've really put you through your paces. But on the seventh day we offer you something of a rest. Today, you can relax and enjoy culture, cafés and a fine cathedral.
1. The Orkneyinga Saga Centre
Zero your car's trip meter at the exit to the Point of Ness Caravan Site (see p85). Turn left onto Guardhouse Park.
At 0.6 miles turn right at the mini roundabout, down Back Rd. At 1.1 miles, turn left at the T junction onto
the A965, then right to Orphir on the A964 (at four miles). Bear sharp left at 8.9 miles (overlooking Houghton ferry
terminal), then turn right (at 9.9 miles) down an unclassified road signposted 'Orkneyinga Saga Centre'. Turn right into the car park at 10.4 miles.
The tradition of sagas - realistic yet embellished accounts of the deeds of Norse nobles across the ages - helped the Vikings remember their history. The displays in this small centre explain the form succinctly and there's an excellent short film to watch, too. There's a Viking chapel in the grounds which is our starting point for a short, circular coastal walk.
2. Historic Kirkwall
Turn right out of the car park and continue down the unclassified road. At 11.7 miles, turn right at the T-junction onto the A964 to Kirkwall. At 19.5 miles turn left at the T-junction into Junction Rd. Then turn right into the car park (19.6 miles).
Here are a handful of historic sites, each within a stone's throw of each other. There's also good shopping in Kirkwall - whether for gifts, food or clothes - and an excellent choice of places at which to have lunch.
2a. The Orkney Museum
Walk out of the car park and turn left onto Victoria St, past Tankerness Lane, as it feeds into Broad St. The entrance to the museum is on Broad St, just past the corner.
All of Orkney's history, from ancient to modern, is here.
There's a lot of it, too, with many fine artefacts beautifully laid out in light, airy surroundings. If it's a fine day, enjoy the gardens, otherwise you can burrow into the archives downstairs, where there is an extensive photographic library. Admission to this museum is free.
2b. The Bishop's and Earl's Palaces
Head out of the museum, across Broad St and down Palace Rd, to the right of the Cathedral. The Bishop's and Earl's Palaces are on the right, either side of Watergate.
The Earl's Palace is one of the finest examples of French Renaissance architecture in Scotland. The 12th-century Bishop's palace is not as grand as the Earl's palace but nonetheless impressive. Admission fee is £2 for adults or 75p for children.
2c. St Magnus Cathedral
Head back down Palace Rd and turn right down Broad St, where the entrance to St Magnus Cathedral is just on your right.
Easily the most impressive building on Orkney - an enormous space whose high, vaulted ceilings can create a perceptible feeling of humility and peace in visitors.
If you fancy finding out more about the place walk about 100 yards back up the left-hand side of Palace Rd, where you can see a video about the cathedral and enjoy a cuppa afterwards in the St Magnus Centre.
2d. Orkney Library
Walk right onto Broad St, past the Tourist Office and some shops. The road becomes Albert St. Turn right up Laing St. The Library is on your left.
Rarely will you find the chance to learn so much about the history of such a small geographic area. An entire 'Orkney Room' is dedicated to the Isles.
3. Streets of Stromness
Return to the car park. Turn right onto Junction Rd. Turn left at the mini roundabout onto Pickaquoy Rd at 19.7 miles. Turn left at the junction (A965) to Stromness at 20.3 miles. Park at Point of Ness Caravan Park.
You won't beat the cobbled, sloping streets of Stromness for character. This small, harbourside town is a wonderful base for a stay on Orkney and though it lacks Kirkwall's range of shops and eateries, its charm is undeniable.
3a. The Stromness Museum
Leave the Caravan Park on foot and walk along the harbourside, down Ness Rd (which, after a few name changes becomes John St); for the sake of convenience, we will refer to it as the main street. After 400 yards, the road turns into a small courtyard before bearing left. The Stromness Museum is opposite.
As you might expect, given the location, this building is packed with maritime history, from the Hudson Bay Company to the German fleet at Scapa Flow. There are extensive displays, too, of the wildlife and geology of the locality, from birds and butterflies, to fossils and sea shells.
3b. The Pier Arts Centre
Continue down the main street for almost half a mile. The Pier Arts Centre is on your right.
A neat gallery with contemporary exhibitors but mainly a 20th century content. Significant works are displayed from the likes of Ben Nicolson and Barbara Hepworth, both part of the St Ives movement in the 1920s. Children have their own workroom to get creative in while adults can enjoy the Centre's peaceful, uncluttered ambience.
3c. Enjoy award-winning ales
Continue walking down the main street and past the ferry terminal The Stromness Hotel is on your left. Head for the Flattie Bar.
History and culture can be thirsty work, so take the weight off and enjoy some of the Orkney Brewery's award-winning ales on tap. However, if you're visiting in midsummer, the sun definitely won't be past the yard arm - even if it's nearly closing time. Suitably refreshed, you can enjoy a wander through the wonderfully quaint streets and alleyways on your way back to the car.
• Return down the main street towards Point of Ness Caravan Park. There are numerous points of interest along the way - too many to list, but tourist maps are available from the Tourist Information Centre by the harbour. Do find time to venture up a couple of side alleyways, to get a feel for them - we recommend looping around points D, Khyber Pass and E, Puffers Close (see map, p99) as fairly typical examples, the latter with good views of the harbour.
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Distance 36.1 miles driving; two miles walking
Time Six hours
Suitable for All the family
Refreshments
Ferry Inn, Stromness
Tel 01856 850280
The Mustard Seed, Kirkwall
Tel 01856 871596
Pomona Café, Kirkwall
Tel 01856 872325
Stromness Hotel
Tel 01856 850298
Attractions
Bishop's and Earl's Palaces
Tel 01856 871918
Orkney Museum
Tel 01856 813191
Orkney Library
Tel 01856 873166
Pier Arts Centre
Tel 01856 850209
St Magnus Cathedral
Tel 01856 874894
Stromness Museum
Tel 01856 850025
Tourist Information
Stromness
Tel 01856 850716
Kirkwall
Tel 01856 872856 |
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