| Great escapes: Ile de France 1 |
It may be famous for cream and lace, but this attractive town also boasts a fine château, specialist gardens and a unique museum.
Chantilly lies some 40km north of Paris, and from our base at Camping Campix in St Leu d'Esserent we were within a short drive of this memorable town - just 6km south east on the D44.
The town itself may not be instantly striking, but look a little closer and you soon discover elegance, grandeur, character and plenty of trendy shops.
House and gardens
The gardens of the Château de Chantilly combine neatly planned plots and romantic eccentricity. Each section represents a period of history. There is a French Garden from the 1600s, the Little Park and the Hamlet from the 18th century, and the English garden from the 19th century. If you want to remain outdoors, you can float in a large tethered balloon and get a bird's eye view from 150 metres high, or glide for 30 minutes down the Grand Canal.
You are certain to be lured into the château with its fairytale exterior of pinnacles, domes, ornamental art and statuettes. Surrounded by water, it is a fanciful 19th century reconstruction of the 16th century original. It houses the Musee Conde, whose treasures, aside from a reproduction of Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry (Book of Hours), include a collection of French illuminations and paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Horsing around
Horse fancier or not, it is impossible to visit the Musee Vivant du Cheval and not be impressed. By the time we had viewed the
museum's 31 exhibition rooms, passed by some 30 horses in their stalls and observed the grooming procedure, we were well sold on it. That was before we spent half an hour enthralled by a first-class display of horsemanship.
Visitors since then have found this museum to be not only educational but also a cultural experience. Each of the 31 rooms is an enlightenment, with a comprehensive collection of equine paraphernalia. As you pass from one room to another you can find charts depicting the horse's anatomy, saddles, bridles, rocking horses from all over the world, and much more.
A big part of Chantilly's appeal involves its race course, which has been holding race meetings since the 19th century.
Thousands of thoroughbreds train here each year and Chantilly hosts two world-renowned races, the Prix de Diane and the Prix du Jockey Club.
It came as no surprise to us that we had managed to while away most of a day between the château, gardens and horse museum and even managed to sample a good dollop of the world-famous Chantilly cream - delicious! |
ATTRACTIONS
Château de Chantilly Fronted by a lake and surrounded by a large park. Tel 03 44 62 62 60. Open Mar-Oct Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Nov-Feb 10.30am-12.45pm and 2pm-5pm. Admission (inc park) FF39.
Chateau de Chantilly - Park/Gardens A spacious park designed by Le Notre towards the end of the 17th century. Tel 03 44 57 35 35. Open Mar-Oct daily 10am-6pm; Nov-Feb daily 10.30am-12.45pm and 2pm-5pm. Admission (park only) FF17; Hydrophile and Aerophile FF45 each.
Musee Vivant du Cheval A visit to The Living Horse Museum makes an excellent day out. Tel 03 44 57 40 40. Admission Adult FF50; teenager 13-17 FF40; children aged 4-12 FF35; parents FF40; children under 12 FF30.
Recommended Map Michelin Yellow No.237.
Train timetables and general public transport information available at campsite reception.
Tourist Information Office Office de Tourisme de Chantilly, 60, Av du Marechal Joffre, 60233 Chantilly. Tel 03 44 57 08 58
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Camping Campix
This is a popular park ideally placed for visiting sights north of Paris. It has been developed in a disused sandstone quarry, with trees and shrubs to camouflage and soften the unusual setting.
There are modern sanitary facilities and although there is no shop on site a bread delivery van calls each morning in high season. Paris is easily accessible from the nearby train station.
How to get there From Senlis take D44 (direction Chantilly) for 14km to St Leu. Site is signed north of town off the D12 towards Cramoisy.
• WE LIKED The friendly, helpful reception and convenient location.
• BE WARNED Levelling the van takes a few manoeuvres, and the approach road to the site is narrow.
• WOULD SUIT Families seeking a convenient base for visiting theme parks.
Address BT37, 60340, St Leu-d'Esserent.
Tel 00 33 (0)3 44 56 08 48.
Open 1 March-30 November
Charges FF50/80 car, caravan + 2 people; FF15/25 extra person; FF15/20 electric hook-up.
Facilities 160 touring pitches: 150 6-amp electric hook-ups; 22 hot showers.
Shopping 1.5km.
Nearest pub 1.5km.
Gas exchange On site.
FFCC Grading ***
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