| Great escapes: Ile de France 6 |
A treasure trove of French art and architecture in a palace that deserves its reputation as one of Europe's premier attractions.
Out on its own when it comes to unforgettable sights around the Île de France is the Château of Versailles. Surrounded by almost 1000 hectares of parkland, this château is justly acclaimed as a masterpiece of
17th-century French art and architecture. As such, it is one of this region's hardcore tourist spots. So, whether dyed-in-the-wool sightseers or not, few have traversed this region and not made the almost obligatory trip to discover what is claimed to be "the most extensive and sumptuous estate ever built by a ruler".
Travel to Versailles offers several options. Access from Paris takes no more than 30-40 minutes if you go via the yellow RER Line C to Versailles-Rive Gauche. Then there are the SNCF trains from Montparnasse and Saint-Lazare. Another mode of transport is a 171 bus (RATP) from Pont de Sevres to Place d'Armes, or else go by car. We chose the latter.
From Camping Caravaning International, Maisons-Laffitte, we took the A13, direction Rouen, taking the first exit for Versailles-Chateau. But be warned: parking fees around the Place d'Armes at the château entrance are hefty and rise steeply by the hour.
Greenery and grandeur
A wait is virtually inevitable, but the earlier you arrive, the more likely it is you will be able to differentiate between the various queues that form, each for a different tour or destination.
The extensive grounds at Versailles include woods, flower beds, lakes and fountains at every turn, and are a delight of French landscaping at its most formal.
The château itself, which was originally built as a hunting lodge in 1631 by Louis XIII, was converted in a lavish way by his son Louis XIV. You may be enthralled by its art, but the first impression is of sheer grandeur. There seems to be gold everywhere, as well as multicolour marbles, countless Le Brun painted ceilings and much of the original baroque decoration favoured by the young Louis XIV. Thought to be the most indulgent of his whims is the Salon d'Apollon (Apollo Chamber) dedicated to the sun god Apollo, his mythical hero. He chose the sun as his emblem because it was associated with Apollo, god of peace and art.
It's all overwhelming, but on a day out at Versailles there comes a saturation point when the grandeur becomes too much and you need to escape. Even the king and court found it necessary to get off site on many an occasion. For us, though, it was to the traffic chaos en route to the A13. |
ATTRACTIONS
The Chateau of Versailles
Open Every day except Monday; 9am-6.30pm; 9am-5.30pm from 1 October-30 April. Last admission: 30 mins before closing time. Admission FF45; tours from FF25. Information: tel 01 30 83 78 00/01 30 83 77 77.
The Grand Trianon The Petit Trianon and the gardens, open every day.
The Groves Every day, except when the fountains are on (see next item) and some public holidays.
The Fountains Turned on every Sunday from 9 April to 5 October and every Saturday from 1 July to 30 September.
The Carriage Museum Open every weekend, 18 March to mid Nov.
Notre-Dame Quarter A still-active market founded by Louis XIV.
Recommended Road Map
Michelin Yellow No.237.
Tourist Information
Versailles Tourist Office, 2 Bis Ave de Paris, 78000 Versailles. Tel 01 39 24 88 88
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Camping Caravaning International, Maisons-Laffitte
The Seine flows past this site, offering a relaxing environment should you manage to get a riverside pitch. What appeals here is the close proximity to the station, with trains running to Paris every 10 minutes.
How to get there Leave A13 at Poissy exit 7 onto N308 to Maisons-Laffitte and follow the camp signs before town centre.
• WE LIKED The location in the pleasant suburb of Maisons-Laffitte, and the friendly staff.
• BE WARNED There is train and river noise day and night.
• WOULD SUIT All age groups wanting to get to Paris and major sightseeing venues around the Île de France.
Address 1 Rue Johnson, 78600 Maisons-Laffitte.
Tel 00 33 (0)1 39 12 21 91.
Open 1 April-31 October and Christmas.
Charges FF105-146 car, caravan + 2 persons including electric hook-up; extra adult FF26-33. (This site accepts
low-season 'Camping Cheques'. Tel 01892 55 98 55.)
Facilities 200 touring pitches; 200 6/10-amp electric hook-ups; 30 hot showers.
Shopping On site.
Nearest pub On site
Gas exchange Camping Gaz.
FFCC Grading ***
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