Many visitors are surprised and delighted to discover that Pembrokeshire’s climate is very similar to that of Cornwall – like Cornwall, it is warmed by the Gulf Stream. And the two have more than that in common. Both Pembrokeshire and Cornwall have north and south coasts, each side with a different character to the other, and offering the visitor twice as many miles of ocean than an ‘ordinary’ seaside county.
And while Cornwall’s beaches have for decades made it Britain’s most popular summer holiday destination, Pembrokeshire has many that can match or even better them for scenic splendour, safe bathing and sunshine. Not all of them charge for car parking, either!
There are the secluded sun-traps for those who seek to get away from it all, a multitude of tiny rocky coves (principally on the north coast), prime surfing spots and the broad expanses of clean sand in the bigger resorts which offer space for all.
1 WHITESANDS BAY
This broad expanse of fine, white sand lies three miles to the west of the tiny cathedral city of
St David’s, and is arguably the most scenic of the north coast beaches. Facing west into the Atlantic swell, Whitesands is superb for surfing, although warning signs must be observed as waters off parts of the beach can be dangerous for swimming.
The bay, which has the rocky outcrop of the isolated mountain of Carn Llidi as its breathtaking backdrop, is hugely popular in the summer, so a large car park, refreshments facilities and toilets are available. Those energetic enough to climb Carn Llidi will find panoramic views across the county from its summit.
2 NEWGALE
Newgale is big, wide and sandy, with bags of space
for everyone. Its safe swimming, easy access and
plentiful car parking make this, the longest beach in
St Bride’s Bay, a top choice for holidaymakers.
South-westerly winds often generate good surf, and boards may be hired. The firm sands are also a popular venue for sand yachting. Brandy Brook, the stream that flows across the beach at the northern end, marks the ancient division of Pembrokeshire into the ‘English’ area to the south and the ‘Welshry’ to the north.
3 MARLOES
Magnificent: this is the only word that can describe this stunningly beautiful sweep of cliff-backed, golden sand washed by rolling Atlantic breakers on west Pembrokeshire’s coast. A sizeable car park marks the start of two-thirds of a mile of green lane, which descends to the beach. While it’s a long haul back up for those with a lot of beach gear, the effort really is worth it. There are no facilities of any kind on the beach itself, but bathing is safe, and there are plenty of rock pools to be explored.
Two of Pembrokeshire’s ‘Scilly Isles’, the nature reserves of Skokholm and Skomer, can be viewed from the cliff-tops, while at low tide it is possible to walk over the sands to the smaller Gateholm Island, which is in the care of the National Trust.
4 FRESHWATER WEST
This spectacular expanse of golden sand is a wonderful place to watch the Atlantic waves breaking on the shore or simply to get tanned. However, although it is popular with experienced surfers who know the tides, it is dangerous for swimming, with many strong currents and rip tides.
So, give youngsters shrimp nets and take them to the beach’s northern end where it’s often possible to find enormous crabs in the rock pools there. The seaweed, used for making traditional Welsh lava bread is often harvested here.
5 BROADHAVEN SOUTH
For those who want a safe, sandy spacious beach in beautiful, unspoilt surroundings, look no further. Many visitors seeking to avoid the bustle of the big resorts regard this as Pembrokeshire’s finest beach of all. Reached by a set of steep steps from the National Trust car park, the beach at low tide offers excellent swimming, and caves and cliffs to explore. Behind the dunes lies the extensive complex of lily ponds at Bosherton, which can be explored on foot.
6 BARAFUNDLE BAY
This beach has more in common with the beaches of the Mediterranean than with Wales. A veritable
sun-trap, its dune-backed sands are bleached almost white, and low tide exposes a series of caves on the eastern side which can be easily explored.
It is easily worth the half-mile walk from the tiny pocket harbour of Stackpole Quay (and its excellent National Trust restaurant – the Boathouse Tea Room) just for the views of the beach and its crystal-clear azure waters. If you plan to stay for the day, note that there are no facilities at Barafundle itself, and you will need to bring your own sun umbrella or beach tent.
7 MANORBIER
High-tide shingle gives way to a pleasant, sheltered, sandy beach as the waves recede. Water quality is high for bathing and at high tide, a biggish swell makes it popular with surfers. The spectacular, enclosed cove is dominated by Manorbier Castle, which dates from the 12th century and is well worth a visit. A spacious car park also serves the nearby
village, which offers several shops, tearooms, a pub and a hotel.
8 TENBY SOUTH BEACH/PENALLY
More than a mile of firm, golden sands extend
southwards at low tide from Tenby’s busy Harbour Beach to lonely Giltar Point, which overlooks
Caldey Island. The area offers excellent family bathing and is well-served at the northern end by beach shops, refreshment kiosks, toilets and a car park. It is also just a few minutes’ walk from the heart of the walled town, so you can be as busy or as laid back as you want – just keep moving south if you want to avoid the high-season crowds. The
quieter part of the beach can also be accessed from the village of Penally via a short footpath across the golf course, although this stretch is often less
sheltered and has fewer amenities.
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