| Gt Escapes: Scottish Borders 2 |
| Walking: The best way to see the borders |
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The Scottish Borders has its own sights and smells, thanks to the rich abundance of flowers, trees and shrubs. The best way to fully appreciate them is on foot. Our trail, which takes you from the heart of Kelso, along the banks of the River Teviot to Roxburgh, will help unravel the Borders’ colourful history.
1 KELSO ABBEY
One of the four great Borders Abbeys, it was founded in 1128 by King David I of Scotland. Some say the
cobbled market square in Kelso has a French feel to it – perhaps a legacy of the monks who were brought from Tiron, in France, who inhabited the abbey.
From the there, cross the River Tweed by the bridge that was built in 1803. Reaching the other side, there is the grand archway that once marked the entrance to the demolished Springwood Park House. The arch dates from 1822. Now turn right up the A699.
2 THE TEVIOT
Before long, you’ll see the union of the Rivers Tweed and Teviot. The latter is one of the main tributaries of the Tweed, and this is the river you should follow. This area, called Junction Pool, is one of the best and most expensive salmon beats of the entire Tweed. Continue to follow the Teviot.
Soon, you’ll cross the grand 1795 stone bridge
– but before you do, on your left is the entrance to Springwood Caravan Park. The park is situated within the site of the Springwood estate. A mansion once stood on these grounds but was demolished in 1955.
3 ROXBURGH CASTLE
AND THE ROYAL BURGH OF ROXBURGH
After crossing the Teviot, pass a house and then turn left over a stone stile. Pass down some steps onto the river path, signposted Borders Abbeys Way.
You’ll now pass the remains of the town of Roxburgh and the ruins of its castle. Roxburgh was once one of the most important royal burghs
in Scotland. In the five centuries after the Romans withdrew from Britain in 5AD, there was almost
constant tribal warfare in the area. The hill here, known as March Mount, was fortified to protect the burgh and, in 1018, after Alexander II had recovered the South of Scotland following the battle of Carnham, there grew a town and a castle.
Its fortitude made it a favourite haunt of Scottish kings in the 1100s and 1200s, but for the following four centuries it was witness to an almost continuous war that raged throughout the Borders region. During that time, Roxburgh castle was constantly changing hands, between the Scots and the English, but in 1460 James II made an attempt to retake it for Scotland. He was killed by a bursting cannon, but his wife, Mary of Gueldres recaptured the castle and then destroyed most of it. Soon after, the residents of the town scattered and the town effectively ceased to exist. Today, the small town which sprung up in its place during the 16th century now bears its name once again. Of the old Royal Burgh, only some low mounds appear in the fields beside the castle. Looking across the Tweed from the top of the castle, you will see Floors Castle high on the hill – this is home to the Duke of Roxburghe, and plays host to various equestrian events.
4 RIVERSIDE WALK
Keep walking along the riverbank for two miles or so, and take note of your surroundings. You’ll see regular ‘rises’ in the river beside you, caused by trout and salmon seeking insect snacks, and if you are very lucky, you may even see an otter.
Birdlife here is abundant, and includes moorhens, mute swans, oystercatchers and herons. There
are also yellow-hammers, wagtails chaffinches and other species. It’s not unknown to see kingfishers
– or at least spot a flash of brilliant blue – alongside the river. All manner of plants thrive along the banks. Various species of reed grow in more
sheltered areas of the river, and on land you can
see spring flowers and bulbs including bluebells, daffodils and crocuses.
5 THE RAILWAY VIADUCT
The path will take you across several stiles along
the riverside, before you join a minor road about a mile and a half from Roxburgh Castle. Turn left through Roxburgh Mill Farm, and continue towards the village. From here you can see the majestic
arches of the former railway viaduct as it strides across the river. A footbridge suspended from the viaduct gives pedestrians access to the east bank. This impressive piece of Victorian civil engineering dates back to 1847.
Here, at Roxburgh, there was a junction from where trains would travel south from St Boswells to Jedburgh, although this line was closed in August 1948. At St Boswells, the old train service joined the Edinburgh-Carlisle line. In the other direction it went east to Kelso (the route was closed to passengers on the 15 June, 1964) and originally as far as Berwick via Coldstream (this part of the track was closed in
1965) and Tweedmouth Junction. With secondary routes such as these having been closed, it was
not long before the Edinburgh-Carlisle main line
– known affectionately as ‘the Waverley line’ because of its association with so many towns
linked with Sir Walter Scott – also went into decline and finally closed on 6 January, 1969.
6 THE RETURN JOURNEY
If you want to stretch your legs even more, you could carry on further up the Teviot river to Jedburgh, which makes the walk about 12 miles in total.
You can return to the starting point of your walk at Kelso by the same route. You could also cross the Teviot by the footbridge and return on the other river bank. Yet another way would be to walk to Kalemouth along the river (about three miles) from where you can catch a bus, but remember to check the bus times.
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Time 21/2 to 31/2 hours
Distance Six miles
Start/finish point Kelso Abbey
Terrain Mainly level, clear paths. May be muddy after heavy rain.
Suitable for anyone who is reasonably fit.
Tourist information
Scottish Borders Tourist Board Information Service. Tel 0870 608 0404
• Tip Take time to talk to the local anglers. They know
these waters better than
anyone and can tell you where to look to spot wildlife.
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