| Great escapes: Scotland 1 |
Stirling is a natural centre from which to explore much more than just a good slice of Scotland. Basing yourself here will leave you options to go north, south, east or west. It's no accident: the town of Stirling originated here for this very reason as a place of defence in ancient Scotland. It's suspected that there was an ancient castle where the current medi_val one now stands as early as the 10th century. Based on its high volcanic plug, it commands a perfect, unobstructed view for miles, and raiders or travellers alike had to pass through here, as it offered the shallowest and narrowest crossing point on the Forth. Not only is an excellent base, but it's a wonderful attraction in its own right.
The castle is the focal point of the town. Park your car in the castle car park or use the park and ride, just outside the town.
1. Stirling Castle
Stirling Castle was the Royal residence of the House of Stewart between 1371 and 1542. The castle you see today, was rebuilt between 1500 and 1600. Mary Queen of Scots was crowned in the chapel in 1543.
The castle looks huge from the outside and from below, but the casual visitor can take in its finest points in 45 minutes. Our advice, though, is to take a guided tour. Entertaining and educational, tours take place on the hour and every half hour. Make sure you see the kitchens, excavated in 1921: they've been brought to life with impressive lighting and models. Also visit the Great Hall, recently restored to its original splendour, and the museum of the Argyll and Sutherland Highlanders.
To reach Argyll's Lodging, leave the castle, walk down past the tourist
information office, and continue for a short way. The Lodging is on your left.
2. Argyll's Lodging
Your ticket to Stirling Castle entitles you to free admission to Argyll's Lodging, further down the hill. Or, admission is £3 for an adult and £1.20 for a child.
The Lodging is the finest surviving example of a 17th-century Scottish townhouse. Its fineries were only recently discovered. It was built in 1630 by Sir William Alexander, who founded Nova Scotia. Now it has been restored, even to the point of the installation of furniture based on authentic inventories. There is a 30-minute audio visual guide, or you can wander through it yourself in about 15-20 minutes.
3. Mar's Wark
As you leave Argyll's Lodging, turn left and look across the road. This ruin is Mar's Wark, originally the splendid townhouse of the Earl of Mar, who commissioned the building in 1569. It was originally finished in a magnificent renaissance style, much of which can be seen in the stonework. However the building became a barracks after the Jacobite rebellion.
4. Walk the old and new town
At Mar's Wark, turn left down Broad Street and walk towards
Mercat Cross.
This was the commercial centre of the old town and the little unicorn atop the cross is known to the locals today as 'Puggy'. Look right from the cross as you face down Broad Street and you'll see the Tolbooth, built in 1703 by Sir William Bruce. Continue down Broad Street and you'll come to Darnley Coffee House. This was the house of Lord Darnley, who was murdered by the Earl of Bothwell in 1567, after a close and scandalous involvement with Mary Queen of Scots. The tea house now occupies Darnley's stables and makes a perfect lunch stop. It's reasonably priced, and the food is well-prepared.
Continue down Baker Street as you move into the newer part of the town. Turn left into Friar Street at the bottom of the hill.
Here, you'll begin to appreciate that Stirling is a vibrant town today, too, with a colourful young student population at Stirling University.
Turn right at the end of Friar Street, into Murray Place, and go to the station.
The Scottish Midland Railway built this station in1850. It is a beautiful building. Semaphore
signals remain and hark back to the time when the railways brought new commerce and a changing way of life to Stirling.
Leave the station and return to Murray Place, turning left. Turn right at the end, into King Street where you'll see the busy town centre. Head up King St, then up Spittal St, then into St John St.
5. Old Town Jail, St John Street
A brief tour takes about 20 minutes but you'll want to stay for longer. A 'hangman' takes you through the 1847 jail. It's fascinating and you can still see the tally marks scratched on cell doors by prisoners counting the days to their release.
Turn left out of the Old Town Jail and head backup the hill towards the castle. Holy Rude Church is before Mar's Wark.
6. Church of the Holy Rude
Delightfully, the Church of the Holy Rude is still a functioning church after 600 years. Its name is a medi_val term for the 'Cross' of Christ's crucifixion. James VI was crowned here in 1567.
Just a short drive from Stirling
Return to the car park. Zero your trip meter and drive downhill. Turn left at Mar's Wark into Broad St. At the bottom of Mercat Cross (0.2 miles), turn left and drive down this road (St Mary's Wynd) then turn left at the bottom into Lower Bridge St (0.5 miles). At the mini-roundabout, turn right into Union St. At the major roundabout take the second exit to St Andrews (A91). Cross the bridge and bear right at the traffic lights (1.1 miles) under the railway bridge. At 1.7 miles, take the third exit at the roundabout to Alloa (A97), St Andrews (A91). At 2.8miles approach a roundabout, and turn left at the roundabout onto the A91 (Tay Bridge and St Andrews). At 3.8 miles turn left onto the B998 (Logie Kirk). Turn right into the Logie Kirk, and park here.
LOGIE OLD KIRK
Walk past the Logie Kirk, a pleasant country church, and continue up the lane until you come to Logie Old Kirk. It's a pretty, little ruined church and graveyard, by the Burn. It lies at the foot of Dumyat hill, associated with witches in times past.
When you have finished, zero your trip meter and turn right onto the B998. At 0.8 miles, turn right into the National Wallace Monument.
NATIONAL WALLACE MONUMENT
This is Stirling's most recognisable symbol. It commemorates Sir William Wallace who led an army down from Abbey Craig, the hill on which the monument stands, to defeat the English at the Battle of Stirling Bridge in 1297. Today, there's an audio/visual display inside the monument. You can see Wallace's sword, too, after climbing 246 steps to the crown, but the views are breathtaking.
• Return to your start point in Stirling.
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PARK GUIDE
Witches Craig Caravan Park
Blairgowrie, nr. Stirling, FK9 5PX
Tel: 01786 474947
Open 1 April to 31 Oct
OS Ref NS 822 968
Distance: Three miles walking plus 4.6 iles driving
Time: five hours
Start: Stirling Castle
Finish: Wallace Monument
Suitable for: all the family
REFRESHMENTS
Darnley's Coffee House Tel: 01786 475019
INFORMATION
Stirling Castle, Argyll's Lodging, Old Town Hall Jail Tel: 01786 450050
National Wallace Monument:
Tel: 01786 472140
Bannochburn Heritage Centre:
Tel: 01786 472140
TIP
Wear comfortable shoes, because much of the old town is cobbled, and returning up the hill from the new town centre is a stiff work-out!
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