From devastating erosion at the hands of the sea, to the landscape of war or peaceful havens where the wildlife lives undisturbed under the gaze of keen birdwatchers, the Suffolk coastline is area of savage beauty.

1 SHINGLE STREET
This isolated row of fishermen’s and coastguard cottages reached by a long and winding lane from Woodbridge via Hollesley is exactly what its name suggests – a hamlet facing a vast bank of shingle. It has a real edge-of-the-world feel to it, and even in peak season, it rarely attracts crowds. It is was the focus of much wartime attention – from the enemy and allies alike. A small invasion by the Nazis is purported to have been attempted here by in 1940. It was repelled, though, leaving German bodies washed up on nearby shores for many years afterwards. The houses were evacuated during WWII, and some claim it was used for chemical experiments. Secret documents relating to these events were ordered to be withheld from public release until 2021, further compounding the mystery. Next to the houses stands a restored and converted flat-roofed Martello Tower fort, one of several local fortresses dating from a much earlier invasion threat, that of the Emperor Napoleon in the 19th century.

2 ORFORD NESS
Owned by the National Trust since 1993, Orford Ness National Nature Reserve comprises the biggest shingle spit in Europe covered in vegetation. Nowadays, nearly 50 species of birds nest here. However, from 1913 until the mid ’80s, it was a top-secret military site. In WWI, early parachutes were tested here, pilots were trained for sorties over the Western Front, and there was also a prisoner of war camp. From the mid-’20s onwards it became a testing ground for bombs and rockets, and perhaps most significantly, radar was developed here. In the Cold War, an branch of the Atomic Weapons Research Establishment was built here, and was one of the few facilities in the world where components of nuclear bombs were tested. Many of the military buildings survive intact and are open to the public.
Boats run from Orford Quay – regular outward ferries operate from 10pm-2pm, with the last service returning at 5pm.

3 HAVERGATE ISLAND
Lonely Havergate Island is a 300-acre RSPB reserve which lies in the middle of the winding estuary of the River Ore. The island is famous for its breeding terns and avocets which can be readily spotted during spring and late summer. In autumn and winter it provides a major haven for migrating wading birds and ducks. The island comprises six lagoons which are artificially maintained to provide the correct level of water for Britain’s biggest colony of avocets, which returned in 1947 after a century’s absence from the country. Again, boat trips from Orford Quay are limited so must be booked.

4 SIZEWELL
Two centuries ago, Sizewell was notorious for smuggling, and on one night 8000 gallons of gin were brought ashore in one night. Nowadays the name is synonymous with the nuclear power station which dominates the coast for miles. Guided tours around the British Energy-run plant are no longer offered, but visitors who want a closer look can walk on the beach alongside the power station, which sharply contrasts with the village’s cluster of cottages and traditional fishing boats.

5 MINSMERE NATURE RESERVE
The two trails offered here explore the Scrape, a man-made lagoon system offering feeding and nesting areas for waders, terns, wildfowl and gulls. Eight hides are provided and each trail takes around two hours to explore. The shingle beach behind the lagoon is used for nesting by terns and ringed plovers, and grazing marshes to the south provide breeding grounds for lapwings, redshanks and snipe in summer. The sand cliff next to the visitor centre is home to 300 pairs of sand martins in summer.

6 DUNWICH HEATH
Around 214 acres of ancient purple heather survive intact in the care of the National Trust at Dunwich Heath. A shop and information centre is located inside the old coastguard cottages in Minsmere Road, and there are sweeping views of the coastline from the free car parking overlooking the Minsmere wetlands to the south. Visitors can follow a signposted trail along the edge of the heath, and regular guided natural history walks and associated organised events take place throughout the year.

7 COVEHITHE
The phenomenal level of erosion that has taken place along the Suffolk Heritage Coast is scarcely more apparent than at the hamlet of Covehithe, where the road that once led to the beach now abruptly ends at the edge of a sandy cliff. However, this is a truly delightful spot whose long stretch of sandy beach is largely ignored by summer tourists. Care must be taken when walking along the crumbling cliffs and there are no facilities such as toilets or lifeguards, but solitude and a suntrap are assured.

8 BENACRE NESS
This is England’s second most easterly point (the first is Lowestoft Ness). It is all but deserted for much of the year. The 1.5-mile road which leads to it from the resort of Kessingland is closed to cars. Its beach may look tempting in hot weather, but fast currents make swimming dangerous. For those seeking lively modern amusements, Kessingland, with its wide shingle beach has a fair smattering, and there is the Suffolk Wildlife Park nearby, with more than 800 exotic animals including lions, rhinos, giraffes, zebras, buffalo, leopards and gibbons.