| Great Escapes: North Wales 3 |
There are few things that revitalise body and the soul like a good brisk walk… or, come to that, a leisurely afternoon ramble. Striding out in the fresh air and soaking up the sights and sounds of the countryside is a great form of exercise, and it can clear your mind of all those things such as work problems or financial worries which may be spinning around in your mind.
At the time we visited North Wales for this month's Great Escapes, Britain was still very much in the grip of foot and mouth restrictions. This meant that all footpaths in the Snowdonia National Park were closed to us, as walkers. (But as we went to press, trails in many sections of the Park were beginning to re-open to the public).
However, we're sure you'll enjoy the following walk, which we discovered in the Forestry Commission park of Coed-y-Brenin, a short journey south of the Snowdonia National Park.
Start here
We took Coed-y-Brenin's Forest Park Visitor Centre (tel 01341 440666) as the starting point for gathering information for our walking tour.
The visitor centre is just eight miles north of Dolgellau on the A470, and just under two miles north of the small town of Ganllwyd. The entrance to the visitor centre is well signed. Buy a ticket to park from the pay and display machine: £2 will allow you to stay in any of Coed-y-Brenin's car parks for the day.
1. Coed-y-Brenin forest park
Make sure you drop in at the Coed-y-Brenin Visitor Centre before setting out on our suggested walking route: we found the staff here very friendly and keen to help, making it a good place to find out a little bit about the area before you set off on foot.
The forest park covers an area of some 9000 acres around the valleys of the rivers Mawddach, Eden, Gain and Wen. It was formerly part of the Nannau Estate, founded by the Prince of Powys in 1100AD, but was bought by
the Forestry Commission back in 1922 and is now managed by Forest Enterprise.
An extensive amount of planting has turned the area into a major timber production area, but don't be put off at the thought of a canopy of densely-packed conifers blocking out all light and allowing no undergrowth. The emphasis is very much on 'multi-purpose forestry', opening up the area to all various forms of public recreation and wildlife conservation. For example, the park lays claim to some of the finest mountain biking in the UK, with three way-marked trails which cater for all levels of ability, from novice to dedicated off-road cyclist. Most famous of these is the Red Bull Route, which offers a challenge for experienced off-road riders only. For bicycle hire, enquire at the visitor centre.
Those interested in orienteering - a pursuit which involves jogging and map reading to find markers placed in the woods - should ask at the visitor centre for a map and leaflets of courses available in the park.
The Forest Enterprise has a 'freedom to roam' policy in Coed-y-Brenin, so for our walking tour we chose the 'waterfalls and gold mines' walk, which is one of the four way-marked, themed trails for which maps are available at the visitor centre.
At a fraction under four miles long, with some fairly gentle inclines to ascend, it could be classified as a moderate walk and should take about two and a half hours at a gentle pace.
For shorter, less challenging walks, enquire about the Afon Eden Falls walk, the Glasdir Copper Trail and the Forest Nature Trail, instead.
2. Tyddn Gwladys
You need to drive to the start point of this walk. By car, exit the visitor centre, making sure you zero the car's trip meter, and turn right onto the A470. In 1.5 miles turn sharp left onto a single track road. Pass the first car park on the right, at 2.1 miles, and arrive at the Tyddyn Gwladys car park at 2.9 miles on the right.
There are picnic tables by the car park, here, at which to enjoy a snack amongst the scenic surroundings of the river Mawddach. After that, it's time to boot up and head out.
The route is pretty clear but remember to follow the yellow-tipped trail-marker posts all along the way.
3. Walk to the waterfalls ....
Leave the car park, on foot, taking the tarmac road. Within a hundred metres this becomes unsurfaced track. The track climbs gently, passing Ferndale holiday lodge, on the right, in a quarter of a mile.
The steep sides of the Mawddach Valley are wooded with the tallest Douglas firs, oak and birch, which make the air very fragrant. With the river on your right, you are rewarded with constant glimpses of the tall Rhaedr Mawddach waterfalls through the trees.
4. The Gwynfynnydd bridge one mile away, is the ideal viewing point for the Pistyll Gain waterfalls, and these can be extremely loud and visually impressive if there has been some rainfall in the area in recent days.
5 …and the gold mine
Having crossed the bridge, be sure to take a look at the Gwynfynnydd mine, where gold mining began back in 1840 and had a brief rebirth during the 1980s. In its present dilapidated state it now stands as a relic of gold extraction over the years.
6. Looking down the valley
Continuing along the trail, cross the river Mawddach using the stone footbridge known as Gilrhyd. This is the highest point of the walk and offers good views down the length of the Mawddach Valley. The descent for approximately two miles down the east side of the river makes for much easier walking, and passes the car park, opposite, at two miles.
Be warned: watch out for mountain bikers all along the trail, but particularly along this stretch, where mountain bike tracks join the route from the higher, wooded slopes of the valley.
7. At the lower limit of the walk, at three miles, recross the river Mawddach via the wooden bridge and be sure to double back on the tarmac road, signposted Tyddyn Gladys car park - a gentle one mile ascent.
8. Lunch/evening meal stop
Once you've walked yourself a sizeable appetite, you may want to return to the visitor centre, with its a friendly little café which serves up decent food. Alternatively, try the George III in Penmaenpool (tel 01341 422525) just off the A493 near Dolgellau, which serves up home-made bar food and offers some great views of the river Mawddach's tidal estuary. |
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Distance 3.8 miles.
Time 2-3 hours.
Start/parking Tyddyn Gladys car park.
Terrain Wide, unsurfaced riverside paths as well as some tarmac.
Suitable for Those who are moderately active.
Nearest towns Ganllwyd and Dolgellau
REFRESHMENTS
George III, Penmaenpool.
Tel 01341 422525
Unicorn Inn, Smithfield Square, Dolgellau. Tel 01341 422742
INFORMATION
Snowdonia Mountains and Coast. Tel 01690 710426
Mid Wales Lakes and Mountains. Tel 01686 625580
TIPS:
Before you take a walk
Before any physical exercise it's vital that you warm up. Many people feel self conscious and embarrassed swinging their arms around and stretching but if you don't increase the blood flow to your muscles before making them work harder than they're used to, you run the risk of tearing them, which can be very painful and take weeks to mend.
Remember, it's just as important to stretch after a period of exercise as it is to warm up beforehand, in order to get fresh blood flowing to tired muscles. This will save you a lot of muscular aches and pains the next day.
Just as important is to make sure you are kitted out with the right equipment. Weather conditions can change very quickly so take waterproof clothing. If it's hot, take some water with you to keep yourself well hydrated. And although the pathways are well-maintained they're not completely flat so wear sturdy walking boots, preferably those which support the ankle.
Beat the weather
For a seven-day weather forecast for the North Wales area, phone Weathercall on 0839 401558. Calls are charged at 50p per minute.
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