| Great Escapes: North Wales 6 |
The rock formations to be found in North Wales arose millions of years ago from lava and volcanic ash, and are thought to be among the oldest in the world. Mining of this terrain, for copper, slate, zinc, iron, manganese, silver an even gold is a unique part of the industrial heritage of the area.
Life for the labourers working down the mines throughout the Victorian era was tough, with long hours and low pay in what were appaling conditions, compared to the modern experience of work.
On today's outing, we don hard hats and take the plunge down some of the copper and slate mines that are now open as tourist attractions – never again will we take for granted the sun and fresh air of the caravanner's rally field.
Start here
The start/finish point for our tour of North Wales' copper and slate mining heritage are the Lechwedd Slate Caverns at Blaenau Ffestiniog. To get there take the A470 south for a little over 10 miles from Betws-y-Coed.
1. Down in the slate caverns
Lechwedd Slate Caverns remains one of the biggest working slate mines in Wales and is now also one of North Wales' biggest attractions, commanding around 200,000 visitors a year – and deservedly so.
The drive to the Caverns, whether from the south through Blaenau Ffestiniog or from Betws-y-Coed to the north, is a fascinating one. All around are the desolate, mountainous tips of slate waste, banked up in levelled tiers because at least 10 tonnes of waste are generated for every ton of finished slate product. Despite the demands of the industrial revolution – North Wales lays claim to 'roofing Europe's industrial revolution' – the Vale of Ffestiniog manages to preserve its stark, natural beauty.
There are two underground tours to experience at Lechwedd, which look at the nuts-and-bolts practices of old slate-mining skills. Another attraction shows the typical life of a Victorian miner and his family.
First, the Miners' Tramway: boarding a train in the corner of the original slate slabbing mill of 1852, visitors put on hard hats and ride into a tunnel (built in 1846) on a battery-electric train. The journey runs through the side of the mountain into a series of caverns, where you can get off the train and listen to a recorded monologue, in addition to your guide, relating the story of each of the chambers and the type of skills practiced there. But be warned: this is not a suitable tour for those who suffer from claustrophobia.
Second, the Deep Mine tour involves a descent into the ground at a 1:1.8 gradient, making it Britain's steepest passenger railway, taking you down to 450ft beneath the summit of the mountain. You can get off the train at the various levels of the mine's 16 'floors'.
Third, is the Victorian village back on the surface, which gives you an idea of how the miners of the time used to live. Here, You can swap your money for 'old' currency and buy sweets and ale from the Victorian shops.
2. The Welsh Slate Museum
Exiting the Lechwedd Slate Caverns, zero your trip meter and turn right onto the A470. Pass Dowelyddan Castle on the left at 3.6 miles, then turn left at 9.5 miles for Betws-y-Coed on the A5. At 14.9 miles, bear left onto the A4086 for Capel Curig, passing the Plas-y-Brenin National Mountain Centre at 15.1 miles. A number of 3000ft-high peaks tower to your right here, including Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Glyder Fawr. At Pen-y-Gwryd at 19 miles, turn right onto A4086 for Llanberis and Caernarfon. The road ascends to the Snowdonia National Park rangers' outpost at Pen-y-pass, then descends the Llanberis Pass between Snowdon and the massive rock slabs of the Glyders. Entering the village of Llanberis, pass the Snowdon Mountain Railway on your left and turn right into Padarn Country Park at 24.3 miles. At 25 miles, turn left and park in front of the Welsh Slate Museum.
Here is is a living, working museum set in the former repair and maintenance workshops of the towering Dinorwig slate quarry in Llanberis. Much of the original plant and machinery remains intact. The museum aims to tell the story of the slate industry and of its impact on the world – for my money it does the job very well.
A tour of the museum starts with a 3D multi-media presentation which shows you the harsh realities of quarrying life. Then pay a visit to the busy Victorian Quarry Workshops. Here you'll see the foundry – where brass casting still tasks place as a special display for visitors – the forge, the steam locomotive and the giant working waterwheel, which is the largest of its kind on mainland Britain.
Craftsmen can be seen demonstrating the task of splitting slate ready for roofing and will field any questions you may care to throw at them.
Finally you can see one of the original 'inclines', recently restored, which was used to carry slate from the quarry face to the railway link with Port Dinorwig.
3. Lunch break
Exit the Padarn Country Park, turn left onto the A4086 and drive back up the Llanberis Pass. At 31 miles, at the junction with the A498, find the Pen-y-Gwyrd pub on the left.
Pen-y-Gwyrd is an old climber's inn that nowadays doubles as a mountain rescue post.
Home-made lunchtime bar snacks are very filling, and what more satisfaction can you get than munching your way through a good 'ploughman's lunch' with Snowdonia's finest and highest peaks spread out before you?
4. Sygun copper mine
Turn right onto the A498 for Beddgelert and take your time driving down the Aberglaslyn Pass. Be sure to stop in one or two of the lay-by areas at the roadside to admire the view (providing you stick to any foot and mouth restrictions still in place). At 36.5 miles, before entering Beddgelert, turn left for the Sygun Copper Mine.
Copper was one of the first metals to be used by man, and has been exploited as far back as the Bronze Age. The Sygun Copper Mines are a visually stunning reminder of Victorian methods of ore extraction and processing.
The Sygun Mine was first active in the 1700s, and again in 1836 when the Sygun Mine Company was formed. The miners worked with explosive and hand tools to remove the ore, which was then transported from the mine in small wagons, and prepared for crushing. The crushed ore was taken to Beddgelert and then to Porthmadog, where it was shipped to Swansea or Liverpool for refining into copper material.
The Visitor Centre here was once the boiler house of the mine and from here you can arrange to go on an audio-visual tour of the old working, on foot. The winding tunnels lead into a number of large chambers where great stalactite and stalagmite formations and
copper ore veins with traces of gold and silver can be seen. The route rises 140 feet, via stairways, to emerge at the 'Victoria level' for scenic views of the Gwynant Valley down which you've just driven. Be warned, though, a moderate level of fitness is required for this tour.
• Exiting the Sygun Copper Mines, turn left and then left again in Beddgelert onto the A4085 and continue through the stone-built town of Llanfrothen to the A487 at 43 miles. Turn left on the A496 at 46.9 miles. Bear right at the fork in the road at 48.2 miles for Ffestiniog, then turn left onto the A470 for Betws-y-coed/Ffestiniog at 49.4 miles. Turn right at end of Church St at the roundabout for Betws-y-Coed on the A470 at 52.5 miles. Return to the Lechwedd Slate Caverns (on your right) at 53.4 miles. |
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Distance 53.5 miles.
Time Seven hours.
Start/Finish Lechwedd Slate Caverns, Blaenau Ffestiniog.
Suitable for All the family, but a moderate level of fitness is necessary for parts of the Sygun Copper Mine tour.
REFRESHMENTS
Ty Gwyn, Betws-y-Coed.
Tel 01690 710383
Pen-y-Gwyrd, Nant Gwynant, Llanberis.
Tel 01286 870211
ATTRACTIONS
Lechwedd Slate Caverns.
Tel 01766 830306
The Welsh Slate Museum.
Tel 01286 870630
The Sygun Copper Mine.
Tel 01766 510100
TIP
Regardless of how sunny it is outside, take plenty of warm clothing along if you're visiting the underground mines as it can get very cold down there!
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