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Great Escapes: Yorkshire 1
Culinary Yorkshire

An essential part of any trip is sampling the local produce. Forgetting supermarkets and going into a local shop or buying from a local producer is an invaluable way of finding out about the area and getting the best food around. Britain may have a poor reputation when it comes to food, but Yorkshire and its heritage of local specialities and nationally acclaimed dishes are doing all they can to redeem us from this. Whatever your budget you’ll find a variety of tasty snacks and meals on your travels – and the open Yorkshire countryside is the ideal place to work off your excesses.

1 BETTYS, HARROGATE
An institution among tea rooms, Bettys has retained the charm, ambience and cream cakes for which it was famed back in 1919 when it opened. It’s right in the centre of Harrogate, overlooking the immaculate Montpellier Gardens, and the challenge is to make it through to the café at the rear – past the shop full of mouth-watering cakes and chocolates – without filling your basket. The café is a sedate and classy affair (thanks to a ‘no mobiles’ policy), with fresh flowers adorning every table and the grand piano, which sits in the corner. Try the Fat Rascal – a fruity spiced rock bun crossed with a scone – warm from the oven, served with flower-shaped pats of butter. Delicious.

2 YORKSHIRE CHEESES, HARROGATE
On the inconspicuous Commercial Street near the centre of town, this tiny shop is an absolute gem. Behind a glossy black frontage lies an emporium of delicious cheeses and delicatessen foods. Wensleydale is available in a variety of guises – mature, Special Reserve (matured for a minimum of nine months), and the irresistible Wensleydale with cranberries. We tried ‘King Richard III’. Although it is technically a Wensleydale, this cheese, which comes from Bedale, has a wholly creamier and softer texture. This shop retains a loyal clientele among the locals, and rightly so. The selection of luxury foods and cheeses will mean the fridge of any visitor is sure to end up well stocked.

3 PIES, MEAT AND SAVOURIES
Pateley Bridge is an essential stop on any gourmet’s tour, as it is home to at least two fantastic butchers. T Kendall and Sons at the top of the main street does a wide selection of sumptuous pies, including fillings such as steak and ale, pork and mushy peas, and pork and stilton. We sampled the steak and ale which oozed rich gravy and was encased in a tasty pastry. Established in 1876, H Weatherhead and Sons at the lower end of the street offers fine pork pies accompanied by apple sauce, pickle or stuffing.

4 THE OLD BAKEHOUSE
After pigging out on pies, it seemed the ideal time for desert. So we headed to the appropriately named Old Bakehouse halfway up the main street in Pateley Bridge, home of the Yorkshire curd tart. Don’t let the name put you off, though; the tart is a soft, citrusy crumble, dotted with currants and encased in a rich pastry case. A real treat. The shop also stocks pâtés, jams and chutneys, and the delectable Bleiker’s smoked fish.

5 BLEIKER'S
After running the The Old Deanery restaurant in Ripon for over 20 years, Mr and Mrs Bleiker have turned their hand to fish smoking, winning many accolades in the process. Noted as one of TV chef Rick Stein’s ‘Food Heroes’, their small, family business specialises in tailor-made products for restaurateurs, and gourmet fish for the public – available at wholesale prices and by mail order.
On our visit we tasted the Romanov Salmon, a ruby-red fish marinated in beetroot, dill and mustard seeds. The lustrous colour was just a hint of its subtle and gorgeous flavour. Also look out for the award-winning Nidderdale Hot Smoked Trout Fillets. Bleiker’s has a ready supply of fresh, local trout, and its products can be found in any good food outlet throughout Yorkshire.

6 THE SUN INN
Located on the picturesque B6451 between Pately Bridge and Otley, the Sun Inn sits on the brow of the hill between a landscape of homely farmsteads and the moorland above Otley. Inside, the low-beamed ceiling, stone walls and heavy fireplace are just what you’d expect in an historic Yorkshire Inn, with the occasional stuffed fox and ticking clock adding to the atmosphere. All food at this popular stop-off is home-cooked and local produce is used wherever possible. And the Theakston’s Best is gorgeous.

7 WHARF VIEW CAFE
Yorkshire’s history of bracing outdoor activities has given rise to simple, no-frills cafés where full fry-ups are eaten from plastic checked table cloths. The Wharf View Café in Otley must rank among the best, with its view of the river and good-value food. Sit inside and let yourself be surrounded by the smell of sizzling bacon or eat outside and watch the cyclists, walkers and climbers burn the calories for you.

8 HARRY RAMSDEN'S
One of the first and most famous fish and chip shops in the world, this restaurant was founded in 1928. While some chains lose their charm with expansion, the original branch combines a sense of fun, family meals out from a between-the-wars era, thanks to its crystal chandeliers, high, moulded ceilings and gentle jazz music.

9 FOR THE LOVE OF LIQUORICE
Pontefract is a must for liquorice lovers. Coined the ‘Liquorice Town’, it has a long association with the aniseed sweet, originally brought to England by the Crusaders. Monks from Pontefract Priory continued to make it during the 15th century. Today you can enjoy Liquorice Cheese from Cryer and Stott, liquorice ice cream at Cromwell’s Café off the main street, or sweets galore in Thorntons nearby.

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CONTACTS:
PLANNING
Yorkshire Tourist Board
Tel 01904 707961

Refreshments
The Sun Inn
between Pateley Bridge and Otley
Tel 01943 880 220

Attractions
Bettys, Harrogate
Tel 01423 502746
Website Click here for website
The Cheeseboard Harrogate
Tel 01423 508837
Website Click here for website
T Kendall and Son
Pateley Bridge
Tel 01423 711342
Web Click here for website
H Weatherhead and Sons Tel 01423 711207
The Old Bakehouse
Pateley Bridge
Tel 01423 711189
Bleiker’s Smokehouse, Glasshouses, Nr Pateley Bridge Tel 01423 711411
Website Click here for website
Wharf View Café Otley
Tel 01943 461262
Harry Ramsden’s
Tel 01943 874641
Website Click here for website
Thorntons, Pontefract
Tel 01977 790870
Website Click here for website
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