Longing to get away after what had seemed like a never-ending winter, we at last saw a forecast for a few bright, sunny days ahead. So having quickly loaded up the caravan, we set off for one of our favourite campsites in West Wales as we embarked on a tour to Pembrokeshire.
This is a beautiful part of the world, with plenty to see, ranging from atmospheric castles to picturesque beaches. The best caravan parks in Wales will offer you a great base for taking in some of these breathtaking sights.
This was certainly the case with where we’d decided to stay. After about an hour and a half battling against a 40mph headwind, we made it to Little Kings Holiday Park, just off the A477, about 15 minutes north of Tenby. We pitched the van and set up our recently purchased sun canopy (see our best sun canopy for a caravan guide if you’re looking for one), then relaxed over lunch before setting off to explore.
Ambling in Amroth
Our first stop was the small coastal village of Amroth. Since our last visit, the winter storms had been at work and the bank of stones adjacent to the access footpath had been made even higher by the relentless pounding of the sea and the large amounts of wood that had washed over the top.
The concrete ramp down to the sandy foreshore remained intact, however, and with a bit of judicious walking between the stones, we were still able to reach the beach, where many other visitors were enjoying a walk on the sands, while dogs bounded about, having a whale of a time.
I’m sure that by the start of the Easter holidays, the local council will have tidied up the pathway to allow full access once again. Despite all that, this remains one of our favourite spots to visit, and with a Pay & Display car park tucked away behind the shops and cafés, there is normally no problem finding a place to park.
The road through the village is lined with small shops and cafés, with The Smugglers Bar & Grill at one end and the Amroth Arms pub at the other.
We have eaten at the latter several times and in summer, they do not take bookings, so it is a case of first come, first served!
Amroth is a popular spot for locals and visitors, and during the warmer weather, tables and chairs are placed on the beach side of the road, and the cafés and pubs do a roaring trade in breakfast rolls and light lunches. While strolling along the prom, do look out for Bertie the Sea Bass, a huge stainless-steel sculpture filled with plastic litter collected by volunteers from local beaches, to highlight the growing problem of sea pollution.
Having had our daily dose of fresh air and exercise, we headed back to the site for a relaxing afternoon. Later in the evening, we went to the onsite Tavern, where we were pleasantly surprised to find a takeaway pizza van in attendance. That was our evening meal sorted!
After enjoying our food in the Tavern, washed down with a couple of beers, we headed back to the van for an early night. Before the pandemic, the Tavern provided its own great value evening meals, but this has now stopped. However, the park owners ensure that in the busier months, a mix of local takeaway food vans visits the site, offering a range of meals, from pizzas to curries and burgers, on different nights.
You are also welcome to bring the food into the Tavern and enjoy a sit-down meal accompanied by a pint of local ale.
Off to the seaside
The weekend we were there coincided with the clocks going forward for summer, so we found ourselves up somewhat later than usual, but the sun was shining, and we were determined to make the most of the good weather while it lasted.
The pretty little resort of Saundersfoot is only a 15-minute drive from the site, so next day, we hit the road and headed there. We found the best route was to drive towards Tenby, then turn left in the village of Pentlepoir. On the main road through the village, there is a static caravan park with an excellent site shop, selling a wide range of camping gear – this is a good place to stock up on everything you might need, from awning pegs to toilet chemicals (and do take a look at our guide to the best caravan toilet chemicals if you want to stock up before heading off).
It’s also worth remembering that just next door is the Dragon Palace, a Chinese restaurant and takeaway, which delivers locally, saving you having to drive out at night!
There is a large car park in Saundersfoot overlooking the beach and harbour, which is always popular. There’s another Pay & Display behind the shops, and in summer there is additional parking off this one, on the grass of the local cricket club.
Crabbing and ice cream
Saundersfoot has a lot to offer, including a long stretch of sandy beach and a very picturesque fishing harbour enclosed by robust stone seawalls.
Stroll around the harbour (great for crabbing, by the way) and you eventually come to the Marine Centre of Excellence. Here, the Outer Reef Surf School provides advice and equipment for visitors to enjoy a range of watersport activities, including paddleboarding, surfing and kayaking.
Just beyond this building, steps take you down to a small sandy cove, ideal for getting away from the hustle and bustle of the main beach, with its ice cream vans and fast food outlets. No such problems for us at this time of the year, however, and it was lovely to sit in the sunshine, enjoying an ice cream and watching people strolling on the beach and paddling in the seawater pools.
For Elaine, the main attraction is the wide range of small independent shops selling clothing, handbags and jewellery. On The Strand, there is also a larger outlet shop, offering a huge choice of well-priced clothing and accessories.
I was much more interested in a group of classic MG sports cars, which were taking part in a rally and cruising around, passing local pubs overflowing with people enjoying their drinks in the sunshine.
Timeless Tenby
No trip to this part of Pembrokeshire would be complete without a visit to Tenby, the most popular seaside town in the area.
After a morning spent around the van, we set off to revisit some of our favourite haunts. We were lucky to find a spot in the Pay & Display car park, located just outside the ancient stone walls that enclose the old town, and we made our way through the impressive Five Arches gate, which leads directly into the main shopping area.
We were immediately assailed with the sights and sounds of a traditional seaside resort – colourful displays of beach goods, the alluring smell of fish & chips, and the sight of people enjoying ice cream.
We wandered down to the harbour area and found that the tide was out, exposing the sandy shoreline, from where you can walk across to North Beach, passing the moored fishing boats and leisure craft. Later, walking back up, we discovered the Tudor Merchant’s House. This is hidden away in a side street, Quay Hill, leading to the harbour from the main square.
Dating back to the 15th century, the house, which is now owned by the National Trust, recreates the daily life of a prosperous trader and provides a fascinating insight into living in the Middle Ages. Opening times are restricted, though, so check on their website before visiting.
Time for a tea break
Having worked up a thirst, we set off in search of refreshments and chanced upon Caffè Vista. This small café is on Crackwell Street, which leads down to the harbour, and comes complete with a small outside seating area, offering spectacular views over Tenby Harbour and North Beach. Service is excellent and the menu is good, with everything from hearty breakfasts to delicious cakes and pastries, all with a Continental twist.
However, if you fancy something a bit more substantial, we’d strongly recommend On George’s restaurant, on (believe it or not) George’s Street. Here they prepare simple dishes, with lots of seafood on the menu.
Next day, we decided to try something different and headed west along the A477. Friends had recommended visiting a small village called Lawrenny, where there are quayside tearooms overlooking the upper reaches of the River Cleddau.
This is where the minor tributary rivers Cresswell and Carew merge before entering the Cleddau, which then winds its way past Pembroke Dock and the oil refineries of Milford Haven, to join the Irish Sea.
It is an interesting drive, because the road gradually becomes narrower and traverses ancient woodlands, before passing the pretty village of Cresswell Quay and then going on to Lawrenny Quay.
Although this turned out to be a longer journey than expected, we were very well rewarded when we arrived, and decided to relax at a rustic café table with tea and cakes, overlooking the river and enjoying the afternoon sunshine.
Looking around the setting, it was easy to imagine the furtive activities of local smugglers in days gone by, with numerous small creeks surrounded by woodland, perfect for avoiding the Revenue men.
These days, the river is used for much more peaceful pursuits, with a steady stream of leisure boats pottering about the river or heading out to sea for a day’s sailing.
That evening, we met up with friends to enjoy an evening meal at a country pub. They suggested The Carew Inn, a small pub in the village of Carew, less than a
mile from the A477.
After enjoying a delightful meal in the company of friends, we headed back to the campsite; but not until we had made a mental note to return one day to explore the old castle and the ancient tidal mill next door, which is one of only five remaining in the UK and the only one in Wales.
Ferry crossings
Our next port of call was Pembroke Dock, a bustling riverside town which has the best choice of local supermarkets to stock up on food and other supplies.
Hobbs Point, a small area by the River Cleddau, was originally built for the ferry crossings. From the old pier, the packet ferries use to depart for Ireland, providing a service that lasted from the 1830s until 1848. In the 1930s, a paddle steamer route was established to ferry both passengers and vehicles across the river. This service, along with other boats, continued until the construction of the Cleddau Bridge, which opened in 1975.
Originally a toll bridge, today there are no charges, and motorists and other users can enjoy spectacular views over the river and the surrounding countryside.
Pembroke Dock continues to provide the departure point for Irish Ferries services crossing to Rosslare in County Wexford, and we enjoyed watching one such ship from our vantage point in the car park at the old Hobbs Point, as it cruised up the river and then U-turned before docking at the local ferry terminal.
Having crossed over the magnificent Cleddau Bridge, we made our way across to Milford Haven. Historically, the town has always been favoured as a port, mainly because of its wide deep-water channel and sheltering hills on either side.
Originally a centre for the fishing industry, it was transformed into a naval dockyard and then in the 1960s, took on a new lease of life for commercial tankers, following the construction of nearby oil refineries.
Today, the old docks have once more been transformed, into a modern marina complete with shops and restaurants in new buildings designed to mimic the old dockside warehouses, some of which have also been retained.
We took a stroll along the waterfront, while enjoying an ice-cream in the warm sunshine. There’s plenty to see here, such as one enterprising hotel that has built a row of floating rooms, accessed from the walkway running alongside the docks.
Haven and Haverfordwest
As the fine weather was still holding, we extended our stay for an extra night, and decided to venture further west to the historic town of Haverfordwest.
Located on the banks of the Western Cleddau river, there is a development of modern shops on one side, then by crossing one of the many bridges, you can enter the old town. The latter features traditional shops, all in the shadow of the imposing castle, dating back to the 12th century.
To the north of the town is Withybush Retail Park, housing the usual selection of shops and supermarkets – a good place to while away an hour or two on a wet day!
All too soon our enjoyable mini-break was coming to an end, so we made our way back to the campsite to start the process of loading up the caravan once more, before our morning departure the following day.
Get more travel inspiration by seeing how Janette Sykes got on when she set off on a trip to historic Anglesey. Alternativey, find out how Nigel Hutson’s tour to North Yorkshire went, as he made a curious return to his policing youth.
Where we stayed on our tour to Pembrokeshire
Little Kings Holiday Park
Address Little Kings Park, Amroth Road, Ludchurch, Pembrokeshire SA67 8PG, littlekings.co.uk
01834 831 330
- Open: March to October
- Pitches: A total of 66 touring pitches, with a mixture of grass and hardstanding, and including 20 fully serviced
- Charges (pitch+2+hook-up): From £45 to £65
Set in the glorious Welsh countryside, this immaculate, family-run, 17-acre campsite provides a good selection of hardstanding and grass pitches for leisure vehicles.
If you really want to be spoilt, you can opt for one of the fully serviced pitches, which provide water, waste water drainage and hook-up, on a level hardstanding with stunning views across the rolling countryside.
As a bonus, these pitches are also blessed with fine sea views and a picnic bench on a grassy area to one side – what more could you want?
Elsewhere on the site, there are play areas, a football pitch, a dog-walk and a picnic zone.
The main reception block provides a heated indoor pool, as well as a games room and a popular pub, the Tavern.
The reception area also doubles as a small shop for all of your basic needs.
Dogs are welcome inside the Tavern, but must be kept on a lead at all times, and visitors should be aware that there are restrictions on where and when your dog is permitted – a list of dates is available on the website.
How to get to Pembrokeshire
From the east, the easiest way is along the M4 until it ends at Pont Abraham Services. The good-quality road continues as the A48, and the route is dual-carriageway all the way to Carmarthen.
From there, we took the dual-carriageway A40 to the St Clears roundabout, where we forked left onto the A477, signposted Pembroke Dock.
After that point, it was onto single-carriageway roads, but a bit further on, a new stretch of road cuts through lovely countryside, avoiding the previously long, arduous crawl through the villages of Llanddowror and Red Roses.
Just before getting as far as the Kilgetty roundabout, we took a left turn towards Amroth and a couple of miles later, we were driving into Little Kings Holiday Park.
If you’re using a sat nav, head for the nearby village of Ludchurch.
If travelling from the North or the Midlands, go down the M5 to the M4 and head into Wales over the Severn Bridge, then carry on as above.
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